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Ferrules are designed to crimp onto the tube and seal. Just don=92t mistake=
one for an olive.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bs=
pidell@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2020 3:57 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most leaks co=
me from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.
On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
Bill--
It is identical to the one that was on the car prior to my beginning the pr=
oject. it cam off with some difficulty.
Best--Michael Oritt
ynotink@msn.com>> wrote:
Careful of the solid =93olive=94. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. If yo=
u put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
________________________________
team.net>> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net<m=
ailto:healeys@autox.team.net>>
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
* I got everything together this morning.
*
* I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws sh=
own in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additional scr=
ews should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and somehow=
thread into the holes in the copper ring. (Those holes and the three smal=
ler holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator pins w=
hich were present on some units, though not mine.). In any case after a lo=
t of good and patient advice from folks over on this list and the AH Experi=
ence site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed the three screws and =
passed them through the countersunk holes on the plate and into the traffic=
ator.
*
* Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be spl=
it to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent to me by =
David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it hom=
e. I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
*
* This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at al=
l during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I am now r=
eady and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
*
* Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.=
Curt
So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA as =
well as 5BA as you correctly said.
Best regards
On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.n=
Gentlemen,
First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA. See attached.
Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one st=
arted, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
-Curt
m>> wrote:
I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your issue=
I have 2 suggestions.
Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common g=
lue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you are =
assembling the assembly?
Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer, thinne=
r, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins" would =
be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it would stay i=
n place.
Gary Hodson
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
> I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
> refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
> having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>
> 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
> attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
> head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
> stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
> which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
> there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
> attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
> something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>
> 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
> stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
> force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
> etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
> cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
> buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
> to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>
> Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
> I would like to get the car back on the road.
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
>
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<div>Ferrules are designed to crimp onto the tube and seal. Just don=92t mi=
stake one for an olive.</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net=
><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, September 8, 2020 3:57 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>Why wouldn't you use a split olive? They seem to seal OK, and most lea=
ks come from the front or top cover, or the rocker shaft seal.<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_moz-cite-prefix">On 9/7/2020 8:37 PM, Michael Oritt via Hea=
leys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Bill--</div>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">It is identical to t=
he one that was on the car prior to my beginning the project. it cam =
off with some difficulty.</div>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt<=
/div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 11:03 PM WIL=
LIAM B LAWRENCE <<a href=3D"mailto:ynotink@msn.com";>ynotink@msn.com</a>&=
gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex; border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>Careful of the solid =93olive=94. Sounds like a tubing ferrule to me. =
If you put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.=
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_gmail-m_-2780412725893549148divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font f=
ace=3D"Calibri,
sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>F=
rom:</b> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; targ=
et=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox=
.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> John Harper <<a href=3D"mailto:ah100register@gmail.com"; targe=
t=3D"_blank">ah100register@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">heal=
eys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">
<ul>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Ca=
libri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">I got everything together this mor=
ning. </span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-f=
amily:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Ari=
al,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">I was under the mistak=
en impression that the three flathead screws shown in the earlier photo sho=
uld stay in place and that three additional screws
should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and somehow th=
read into the holes in the copper ring. (Those holes and the three sm=
aller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator pins=
which were present on some units, though
not mine.). In any case after a lot of good and patient advice from =
folks over on this list and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error =
of my ways, removed the three screws and passed them through the countersun=
k holes on the plate and into the trafficator. </span></li><li><=
br style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,G=
eneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">
</li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Taho=
ma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">Despite varying opinions as t=
o whether or not the olive should be split to allow for installation I was =
able to get the solid one sent to me by
David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it ho=
me. I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully. </span></l=
i><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,=
Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Ari=
al,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">This is one of those j=
obs that we will probably do only once if at all during our ownership but i=
n case there is a "next time" for me I am now
ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.</span></li><li><s=
pan style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,=
Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34); font-family:Verdana,Ari=
al,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size:13px">Thanks all for your pa=
tience--Michael Oritt</span></li></ul>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <=
;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.=
team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex; border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Curt
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of B=
A as well as 5BA as you correctly said.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best regards</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <=
<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.t=
eam.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex; border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gentlemen,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA. See =
attached.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins. &n=
bsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, =
get one started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.<=
/div>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>-Curt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <<a href=3D"mailto:warth=
odson@aol.com" target=3D"_blank">warthodson@aol.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex; border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div style=3D"">I have re-read your description of the problem & if I u=
nderstand your issue I have 2 suggestions.
<div>Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as com=
mon glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you=
are assembling the assembly?</div>
<div>Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longe=
r, thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment=
? The "pins" would be removed after you get one #4BA screw starte=
d enough that it would stay in place.</div>
<div>Gary Hodson <br>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica; font-size:10pt; color:black">
<div id=3D"x_gmail-m_-2780412725893549148x_gmail-m_5202623539428257464gmail=
-m_4398404120196588790gmail-m_-4635914555853656348yiv3875564034">
<div>
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex; border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204); padding-left:1ex">
<div id=3D"x_gmail-m_-2780412725893549148x_gmail-m_5202623539428257464gmail=
-m_4398404120196588790gmail-m_-4635914555853656348yiv3875564034yqtfd38455">
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex; border-left:1px
solid
rgb(204,204,204); padding-lef=
t:1ex">
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px
0px
0.8ex; border-left:1px
solid
rgb(204,204,204); padding=
-left:1ex">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arn=
dt for<br clear=3D"none">
> refurbishing and got it back in great condition. Ho=
wever I am<br clear=3D"none">
> having difficulty in reinstalling it:<br clear=3D"n=
one">
><br clear=3D"none">
> 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am=
ready to<br clear=3D"none">
> attach the trafficator assembly which is done via t=
hree #4BA flat<br clear=3D"none">
> head machine screws that go through the countersunk=
holes in the<br clear=3D"none">
> stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper o=
r brass piece<br clear=3D"none">
> which resembles a spring washer. Because of the pie=
ce's thinness<br clear=3D"none">
> there is really only one thread of engagement and w=
henever I<br clear=3D"none">
> attempt to push the head/tube home into its final p=
osition I<br clear=3D"none">
> invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head=
. Am I doing<br clear=3D"none">
> something wrong here or am I simply being ham-hande=
d?<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the e=
nd of the<br clear=3D"none">
> stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I=
start exerting<br clear=3D"none">
> force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to=
be heated,<br clear=3D"none">
> etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i wou=
ld up having to<br clear=3D"none">
> cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I ha=
ve slightly<br clear=3D"none">
> buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if p=
erhaps I need<br clear=3D"none">
> to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?<br clear=3D"=
none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning =
to cool off and<br clear=3D"none">
> I would like to get the car back on the road.<br cl=
ear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br>
</blockquote>
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