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I agree with Chris, Dynamat and similar products are pretty well useless
to stop heat when installed inside the car. They are effective in a
closed car as sound insulation. I tried it in my Vanguard and Austin
Utes, it reduced noise but the big problem is the mastic heats up,
transfers the heat into the aluminium foil coating which then becomes a
heat radiator. In my Vanguard ute you could fry an egg on the foil after
45 minutes driving. Heat shields with air gaps under the car between the
heat source and body is still the best way to go, and if you look at
modern cars that is how it is done.
Cheers
Larry Varley
On 25/01/2019 10:49 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
> On my BJ8, I just have "bare" painted floors, and no underfelt. I
> Â just have the factory style fibrous cement heat shields under the
> floor (with an air gap) and the firewall engine bay ones.
> I have heat wrapped extractors that have been on the car for 23 years,
> with a side exhaust, and I don't have any cockpit heat issues.
> I don't actually understand what issue you men are trying to solve by
> gluing 20 kg of sound deadening on the floor or an open Sportscar?
> Keep the heat out first.
> Out of the car.
> Sincerely.
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia.
> www.myaustinhealey.com <http://www.myaustinhealey.com>
>
>
>
> On 25 Jan 2019, at 7:59 am, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com
>
>> FWIW I used dynamat under my rugs, firewall, and trannie tunnel
>> cover. Rarely drive in the summer due to vapor lock issues in traffic
>> but find neither heat nor noise is an issue.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Richard C
>> BN7 440
>>
>> On Jan 24, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net
>>
>>> Yes; youâ??re right; Dynaliner is their best product for thermal issues.
>>>
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:17 AM
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the
>>> interior
>>>
>>> When I was restoring my BJ8 (about 6-8 years ago) I tried to compare
>>> various thermal insulation efficiencies. I.E. "R" values. My primary
>>> concern was heat not sound. Many of the sources made it nearly
>>> impossible because they do not publish this information. I just
>>> looked at Dynamat's website & in a quick search could not find any
>>> "R" value information. However, I did notice that they seem to be
>>> saying Dynamat is primarily for sound insulation & their Dynaliner
>>> is primarily for thermal insulation. Remember that *anything* you
>>> put between the heat source & the cockpit will act as an insulator.
>>> But some things will be better at it than other things. Dynaliner is
>>> a closed cell (air spaces) rubber material. That sounds similar to
>>> neoprene to me. By the way, it is the small air spaces that do most
>>> of the insulating, not the rubber.
>>>
>>> R values are often stated as btuh/inch. So, if something has an R
>>> value of 8 btu/inch & the material is 1/2" thick it will actually
>>> have an R of 4.
>>>
>>> This is primarily discussing conduction. Heat is transferred by
>>> conduction, convection & radiation.
>>>
>>> The insulation in a Healey will have to be able to withstand
>>> relatively high temperatures, perhaps water & possibly some abrasion.
>>>
>>> I am trying to point out that Dynamat appears to not be the best way
>>> to reduce heat if that is your goal & there is very limited space
>>> available for good thermal insulation so use the best available
>>> after you figure out what that is.
>>>
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2019 5:07 pm
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the
>>> interior
>>>
>>> Bob,
>>>
>>> Agree with other posts about replacing grommets, and sealing any
>>> gaps you find in the engine bay. Any opening will let heat in of
>>> course.
>>>
>>> I didnâ??t use any caulking when I installed the tunnel; just the
>>> factory seals for the tunnel IIRC; But, itâ??s been awhileâ?¦
>>>
>>> As far as heat insulation, I used a product called Refletix; canâ??t
>>> say it reduced the heat any or not; itâ??s still hot in the footwell.Â
>>> I think if I were doing it today, Iâ??d use Dynamat. I just put some
>>> in another vehicle as sound insulation and it works great for that
>>> and is supposed to reduce heat as well. I put the Refletix on the
>>> gearbox side of the tunnel as itâ??s rather thick, but I think Iâ??d put
>>> Dynamat on the inside. Itâ??s very thin (but heavy), so I donâ??t think
>>> it would make the carpet look too thick. Not cheap, though.  Alot
>>> of the custom car shops use it; Foose, Kindigit, etc.
>>>
>>> BTW, Dynamat does make an entire kit for one of the big Healeyâ??s;
>>> Donâ??t recall which one, but its on their website and should be a
>>> custom fit. Should work on all big Healeyâ??s I would think.
>>>
>>> I need to pull my tunnel off as well to replace the gearshift boot;
>>> may put some Dynamat in there as long as I have it off.
>>>
>>> Hope this helps,
>>>
>>> Frank
>>>
>>> â??65 BJ8
>>>
>>> <Now I am ready to install the interior with new heat insulation.Â
>>> What is the recommended caulking compound to use when installing the
>>> tunnel? Is it recommended to install heat insulation on the
>>> transmission side of the tunnel. If so, what to use, for example
>>> heavy duty 3M spray or?>
>>>
>
>
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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<p>I agree with Chris, Dynamat and similar products are pretty well
useless to stop heat when installed inside the car. They are
effective in a closed car as sound insulation. I tried it in my
Vanguard and Austin Utes, it reduced noise but the big problem is
the mastic heats up, transfers the heat into the aluminium foil
coating which then becomes a heat radiator. In my Vanguard ute you
could fry an egg on the foil after 45 minutes driving. Heat
shields with air gaps under the car between the heat source and
body is still the best way to go, and if you look at modern cars
that is how it is done.</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
<p>Larry Varley<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 25/01/2019 10:49 PM, Chris Dimmock
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:2018F617-E7DA-4012-AC18-6A21EA220F3D@gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
<div>On my BJ8, I just have "bare" painted floors, and no
underfelt. I</div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Â just have the factory style fibrous
cement heat shields under the floor (with an air gap) and the
firewall engine bay ones. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">I have heat wrapped extractors that
have been on the car for 23 years, with a side exhaust, and I
don't have any cockpit heat issues. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">I don't actually understand what
issue you men are trying to solve by gluing 20 kg of sound
deadening on the floor or an open Sportscar? </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Keep the heat out first. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Out of the car. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sincerely. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Chris Dimmock</div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Sydney Australia. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature"><a
href="http://www.myaustinhealey.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">www.myaustinhealey.com</a>Â <br>
<br>
<br>
</div>
<div><br>
On 25 Jan 2019, at 7:59 am, Richard Collins <<a
href="mailto:gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=utf-8">
FWIW I used dynamat under my rugs, firewall, and trannie tunnel
cover. Rarely drive in the summer due to vapor lock issues in
traffic but find neither heat nor noise is an issue.<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Regards,
<div>Richard C</div>
<div>BN7 440</div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
On Jan 24, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Frank Magnusson <<a
href="mailto:fmags@cox.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">fmags@cox.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">Yes; youâ??re right; Dynaliner is their
best product for thermal issues.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> <a
href="mailto:warthodson@aol.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">warthodson@aol.com</a> <<a
href="mailto:warthodson@aol.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">warthodson@aol.com</a>>
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:17 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:fmags@cox.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">fmags@cox.net</a>; <a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">
healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly,
now to install the interior<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div id="yiv1297619435">
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">When
I was restoring my BJ8 (about 6-8 years ago) I
tried to compare various thermal insulation
efficiencies. I.E. "R" values. My primary
concern was heat not sound. Many of the
sources made it nearly impossible because they
do not publish this information. I just looked
at Dynamat's website & in a quick search
could not find any "R" value information.
However, I did notice that they seem to be
saying Dynamat is primarily for sound
insulation & their Dynaliner is primarily
for thermal insulation. Remember that
<b>anything</b> you put between the heat
source & the cockpit will act as an
insulator. But some things will be better at
it than other things. Dynaliner is a closed
cell (air spaces) rubber material. That sounds
similar to neoprene to me. By the way, it is
the small air spaces that do most of the
insulating, not the rubber.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">R
values are often stated as btuh/inch. So, if
something has an R value of 8 btu/inch &
the material is 1/2" thick it will actually
have an R of 4. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">This
is primarily discussing conduction. Heat is
transferred by conduction, convection &
radiation. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">The
insulation in a Healey will have to be able to
withstand relatively high temperatures,
perhaps water & possibly some
abrasion. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">I
am trying to point out that Dynamat appears to
not be the best way to reduce heat if that is
your goal & there is very limited space
available for good thermal insulation so use
the best available after you figure out what
that is. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Gary
Hodson<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Frank Magnusson <<a
href="mailto:fmags@cox.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">fmags@cox.net</a>><br>
To: healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2019 5:07 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running
smoothly, now to install the
interior<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<div id="yiv1297619435yqt59580">
<div id="yiv1297619435">
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Bob,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Â <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Agree
with other posts about replacing
grommets, and sealing any gaps you
find in the engine bay. Any opening
will let heat in of
course.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Â <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">I
didnâ??t use any caulking when I
installed the tunnel; just the
factory seals for the tunnel IIRC;
But, itâ??s been
awhileâ?¦<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Â <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">As
far as heat insulation, I used a
product called Refletix; canâ??t say
it reduced the heat any or not; itâ??s
still hot in the footwell. I think
if I were doing it today, Iâ??d use
Dynamat. I just put some in another
vehicle as sound insulation and it
works great for that and is supposed
to reduce heat as well. I put the
Refletix on the gearbox side of the
tunnel as itâ??s rather thick, but I
think Iâ??d put Dynamat on the
inside. Itâ??s very thin (but heavy),
so I donâ??t think it would make theÂ
carpet look too thick. Not cheap,
though.  Alot of the custom car
shops use it; Foose, Kindigit,
etc.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Â <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">BTW,
Dynamat does make an entire kit for
one of the big Healeyâ??s; Donâ??t
recall which one, but its on their
website and should be a custom fit.Â
Should work on all big Healeyâ??s I
would think.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Â <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">I
need to pull my tunnel off as well
to replace the gearshift boot; may
put some Dynamat in there as long as
I have it off.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Â <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Hope
this helps,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Frank<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">â??65
BJ8<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Â <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black"><Now
I am ready to install the interior
with new heat insulation. What is
the recommended caulking compound to
use when installing the tunnel? Is
it recommended to install heat
insulation on the transmission side
of the tunnel. If so, what to use,
for example heavy duty 3M spray
or?><o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black">Â <o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<div
id="yiv1297619435DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
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