Bob,
Have a look at the second picture in my original post - the file name
ends in 667. It's a mock up of the setup on the bench. The dial
indicator is mounted to a magnetic base which is attached to the brake
rotor. The tip of the indicator rests on the outside face of the long
nut. You're right the nut doesn't move, that's the reference. The
indicator will move when you move the brake rotor in and out, indicating
the amount of end float.
Cheers,
Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
On 08/23/2017 07:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I'm missing something ... the nut won't move regardless of end float
> (the hub and rotor will, though).
>
> We are talking about the large castellated nut that should be seriously
> torqued, right?
>
>
> On 8/23/2017 4:13 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>> Bob,
>>
>> The dial test indicator's tip rests on the outside face of the long nut.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>>
>> On 08/23/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>> '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that
>>> sticks out the hub.'
>>>
>>> Why? The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>>>> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure
>>>> the end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with
>>>> a magnetic base. I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated
>>>> axle nut, that sticks out the hub.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Bob Haskell
>>>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
>>>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>>>>
>>>> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you
>>>>> are correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I
>>>>> got the 0.003"). Thanks for pointing this out.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a
>>>>>> bigger garage.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub
>>>>>> assemble. Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if
>>>>>> you have his tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease in
>>>>>> the bearings (and therefore leave the oil seal off). I spray a
>>>>>> little WD-40 or equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin
>>>>>> them when dry, but the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you
>>>>>> need to get no end-play. On first assembly, leave the shims out
>>>>>> and tighten the nut while spinning the hub until there is
>>>>>> noticeable drag. I like to get quite a bit of drag, but without
>>>>>> locking it up. This seats the bearings. Then disassemble and
>>>>>> reassemble, adding and subtracting shims until there is no
>>>>>> perceptible end-float, but no drag. For those of us who do not do
>>>>>> it for a living, be patient and go over it several times until you
>>>>>> are convinced you have it right. Then, take it apart, pack the
>>>>>> bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it. The nut gets
>>>>>> torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7). I always
>>>>>> spin the hub while tightening. This will lock the inner bearing
>>>>>> races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I
>>>>>> think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text). The oil seal
>>>>>> does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the
>>>>>> polished boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear
>>>>>> it to bits in a few miles).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mirek
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>>>>>> Of *Bob Spidell
>>>>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
>>>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Couple things:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec
>>>>>> is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to
>>>>>> allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me
>>>>>> if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks
>>>>>> the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>
>>>>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my
>>>>>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs,
>>>>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with
>>>>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). They
>>>>>> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow. I'm
>>>>>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces? Don?t under-estimate
>>>>>> their importance. When fully tightened with zero end-float, the
>>>>>> ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
>>>>>> races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the
>>>>>> hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
>>>>>> the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct
>>>>>> procedure
>>>>>> is not followed, as we all know.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will
>>>>>> re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or
>>>>>> creased. Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims
>>>>>> I can to
>>>>>> remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in
>>>>>> compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket
>>>>>> break up
>>>>>> once with dire consequences. In that application, the
>>>>>> engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used
>>>>>> to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?.
>>>>>> I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
>>>>>> amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
>>>>>> thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of
>>>>>> shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for
>>>>>> me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
>>>>>> you have an A10 ?.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mirek
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>>>>>> Of *Simon Lachlan
>>>>>> *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
>>>>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing
>>>>>> the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in.
>>>>>> (Won?t
>>>>>> be long!)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
>>>>>> others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all
>>>>>> of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new
>>>>>> ones?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
>>>>>> provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place,
>>>>>> the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat
>>>>>> technical packing pieces???
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Simon
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
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