After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure the
end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with a
magnetic base. I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut,
that sticks out the hub.
Cheers,
Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are
> correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the
> 0.003"). Thanks for pointing this out.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>
>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger
>> garage.
>>
>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble.
>> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if you have his
>> tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings (and
>> therefore leave the oil seal off). I spray a little WD-40 or
>> equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin them when dry, but
>> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no
>> end-play. On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the nut
>> while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag. I like to get
>> quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up. This seats the
>> bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting
>> shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag. For those
>> of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several
>> times until you are convinced you have it right. Then, take it
>> apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it. The nut
>> gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7). I
>> always spin the hub while tightening. This will lock the inner
>> bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I
>> think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text). The oil seal
>> does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the polished
>> boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear it to bits
>> in a few miles).
>>
>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Mirek
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
>> *Bob Spidell
>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
>>
>> Couple things:
>>
>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is
>> 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow
>> for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if I'm
>> wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
>>
>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the
>> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
>>
>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my
>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs,
>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with
>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). They
>> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow. I'm
>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
>>
>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>
>> ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces? Don?t under-estimate
>> their importance. When fully tightened with zero end-float, the
>> ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
>> races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the
>> hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
>> the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure
>> is not followed, as we all know.
>>
>> If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will
>> re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased.
>> Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to
>> remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in
>> compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up
>> once with dire consequences. In that application, the
>> engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used
>> to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?.
>> I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
>> amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
>> thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of
>> shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for
>> me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
>> you have an A10 ?.
>>
>> Mirek
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>> Of *Simon Lachlan
>> *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing
>> the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t
>> be long!)
>>
>> Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
>> others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all
>> of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones?
>>
>> As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
>> provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place,
>> the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat
>> technical packing pieces???
>>
>> As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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