'... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that
sticks out the hub.'
Why?? The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on.
Bob
On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure the
> end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with a
> magnetic base.? I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle
> nut, that sticks out the hub.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are
>> correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the
>> 0.003").? Thanks for pointing this out.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>
>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger
>>> garage.
>>>
>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble.
>>> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if you have his
>>> tech tips.? Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings
>>> (and therefore leave? the oil seal off).? I spray a little WD-40 or
>>> equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin them when dry, but
>>> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no
>>> end-play.?? On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the
>>> nut while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag.?? I like
>>> to get quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up.? This seats
>>> the bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and
>>> subtracting shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no
>>> drag.? For those of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and
>>> go over it several times until you are convinced you have it
>>> right.?? Then, take it apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and
>>> re-assemble it.? The nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at
>>> least for a BT7).? I always spin the hub while tightening.? This
>>> will lock the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression
>>> to the swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous
>>> text).? The oil seal does not get affected as it is in the hub and
>>> turns on the polished boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which
>>> would tear it to bits in a few miles).
>>>
>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Mirek
>>>
>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
>>> *Bob Spidell
>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
>>>
>>> Couple things:
>>>
>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec
>>> is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to
>>> allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if
>>> I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
>>>
>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the
>>> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
>>>
>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my
>>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs,
>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with
>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).? They
>>> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.? I'm
>>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
>>>
>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>
>>> ??? ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces?? Don?t under-estimate
>>> ??? their importance.? When fully tightened with zero end-float,? the
>>> ??? ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
>>> ??? races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the
>>> ??? hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
>>> ??? the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure
>>> ??? is not followed, as we all know.
>>>
>>> ??? If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will
>>> ??? re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or
>>> creased. ??? Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I
>>> can to
>>> ??? remove end-float.? It should not matter as they are in
>>> ??? compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up
>>> ??? once with dire consequences.? In that application,? the
>>> ??? engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used
>>> ??? to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?.
>>> ??? I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
>>> ??? amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
>>> ??? thing to pieces.? When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of
>>> ??? shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for
>>> ??? me.? Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
>>> ??? you have an A10 ?.
>>>
>>> ??? Mirek
>>>
>>> ??? *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>>> ??? Of *Simon Lachlan
>>> ??? *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
>>> ??? *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>>>
>>> ??? Hi,
>>>
>>> ??? With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing
>>> ??? the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t
>>> ??? be long!)
>>>
>>> ??? Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
>>> ??? others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all
>>> ??? of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones?
>>>
>>> ??? As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
>>> ??? provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place,
>>> ??? the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat
>>> ??? technical packing pieces???
>>>
>>> ??? As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>>>
>>> ??? Simon
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
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