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[Healeys] Shroud Repair.

Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 11:01:11 -0400
References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> <CY4PR14MB1160E2F3737C3A41F2FC978890A90@CY4PR14MB1160.namprd14.prod.outlook.com> <CAKkXjqPBqA7Oj_-JEm9B910u0Fu4-HKAfTs1rZaTA8JrwjZ=YA@mail.gmail.com>
Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great
photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site:
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/jensenweld.html  Argon arc welding using
a tungsten electrode ... or as it's known now:  TIG

Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen.
>
> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if
>> you can find the right guy)  then the metal can be hammered back in to
>> shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get
>> bondo over the tops of them.  I have never seen any "factory applied"
>> filler in any of the cars I have worked on.  I don't believe the BMC
>> factory ever used it.
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Keith
>> Pennell <llennep at verizon.net>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM
>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>
>> I agree with John.  And don't use fiberglass!!
>>
>> Keith
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au>
>> To: 'Mike Tobin' <ahbt71 at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>
>> Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a
>> big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try.
>> TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go.
>> Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair
>> John Rowe
>> Qld Australia
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net?>] *On Behalf Of *Mike Tobin
>> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>
>> I've got  a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend.
>> What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because
>> that's how I'm approaching the restoration.
>> I've got  MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front
>> shroud  with it.  I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind
>> the hole.  When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating
>> to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there
>> from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not.
>>
>>
>> I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've
>> uncovered on both shrouds.  At first I thought I thought it was damage
>> repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of
>> the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but
>> to shape the contour..
>>
>> Cheers and Thanks Again,
>> Mike Tobin
>> Townsend, Montana
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
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