I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!!
Keith
-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au>
To: 'Mike Tobin' <ahbt71 at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big
blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG with
an alternating current is the only way to go.
Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair
John Rowe
Qld Australia
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin
Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the
best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm
approaching the restoration.
I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud
with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole.
When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the
spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian.
I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not.
I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on
both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first
owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign
of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour..
Cheers and Thanks Again,
Mike Tobin
Townsend, Montana
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