Don't know if this will come through, but I've attached an article I did
for *Healey Marque *on bugeye construction. Over 2200 individual spot
welds just in the "chassis" Don't know if the big Healey front shroud
could be made in a single pressing and as the article on Larry's site
points out, presses were expensive and needed to be ordered in bulk to be
amortized. I've done another article on the replacement for the 3000.
While doing the research, I learned that DMH was thinking about a
fiberglass front end or even low-cost dies made from Kirksite for the
aluminum panels. These would have been attached to the front of the MGC
rear to make it more distinctive as a Healey than the ADO-51
badge-engineered MG/Healey that had been proposed.
Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville
On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 4:54 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> It amazes me that it was cheaper to pay workers to weld together all those
> small pieces rather than invest in a bigger stamping press to make it out
> of a large or larger pieces.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 11:21 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hmmm! You're right. Red face here...
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of HealeyRick
>> <healeyrik at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 3:01:11 PM
>> *To:* richard mayor
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>
>> Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great
>> photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/l
>> arry/jensenweld.html Argon arc welding using a tungsten electrode ...
>> or as it's known now: TIG
>>
>> Happy Healeying,
>> Rick Neville
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in
>>>> (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to
>>>> shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get
>>>> bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied"
>>>> filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC
>>>> factory ever used it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Keith
>>>> Pennell <llennep at verizon.net>
>>>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM
>>>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at
>>>> autox.team.net
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>>>
>>>> I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!!
>>>>
>>>> Keith
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au>
>>>> To: 'Mike Tobin' <ahbt71 at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am
>>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>>>
>>>> Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a
>>>> big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try.
>>>> TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go.
>>>> Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair
>>>> John Rowe
>>>> Qld Australia
>>>>
>>>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>>> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net?>] *On Behalf Of *Mike Tobin
>>>> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM
>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair.
>>>>
>>>> I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend.
>>>> What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because
>>>> that's how I'm approaching the restoration.
>>>> I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front
>>>> shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind
>>>> the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating
>>>> to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there
>>>> from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've
>>>> uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage
>>>> repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of
>>>> the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but
>>>> to shape the contour..
>>>>
>>>> Cheers and Thanks Again,
>>>> Mike Tobin
>>>> Townsend, Montana
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>
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>>
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>
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