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[Healeys] Throttle Bushes

Subject: [Healeys] Throttle Bushes
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2017 16:34:29 -0800
References: <348086511.40969593.1489154822717.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <d8ff4f71-4625-2aa2-56ba-fd83c5c66f11@comcast.net> <018501d299f9$ed701de0$c85059a0$@roadrunner.com>
Damn ... now I have to pull my engine out again to paint the bushes.


On 3/10/2017 3:56 PM, Bruce Steele wrote:
>
> That?s because the white nylon bushes got painted cadmium with the 
> rest of the mounts.  It clearly looked like Eric had spread the mounts 
> to insert the bushings, then re-crimped them to hold them tightly in 
> place.
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* Friday, March 10, 2017 7:19 AM
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Throttle Bushes
>
> ... and another on the gas pedal shaft--4 total--although that one 
> doesn't suffer as much abuse (that was the 'under the dash' part).  
> Can't speak to your car, Bruce; the instructions show these are 
> suitable for BN7s.  Maybe prior to BJ8s they used something different 
> (can't imagine cork would hold up long at all).  Mine were 
> rubber/bronze bushings in a metal cup; the nylon/teflon ones still go 
> inside the metal cup. Looking at Bruce's photo, you can see the ends 
> of the cup protruding from either side of the brackets, although I 
> don't see any of the white nylon bushes.
>
> Every time I think I've done every possible job on a Healey it proves 
> me wrong.
>
> Bob
>
> ps.  Of course, it's Eric GruNden, not Gruden.  Guess I still had a 
> little football in my head.
>
> On 3/10/2017 6:07 AM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:
>
>     I don't follow this. Mine were cork in a metal cup not
>     rubber/bronze. If the engine is out these need to be replaced, two
>     on the cross shaft and one where the pedal shaft enters the engine
>     bay.
>
>     Nice photo.... looks just like my car
>
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>     *From: *"Bruce Steele" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
>     *Cc: *"Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Sent: *Thursday, March 9, 2017 8:37:11 PM
>     *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Throttle Bushes
>
>     I was going to replace the bushes on my throttle shaft, but saw
>     what Eric had done back in, well, who knows when, and they looked
>     great.  So I just stripped and painted the shaft.
>
>     Bruce Steele
>
>     Brea, CA
>
>     1960 BN7
>
>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>     Of *i erbs
>     *Sent:* Thursday, March 09, 2017 9:50 AM
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Throttle Bushes
>
>     Good catch. They tend to get munged when folks install or remove
>     their engines, if not as stated heat and time.
>
>     I built a cable throttle set up to bypass the Rube Goldberg set
>     up. I have promised a wrote up to John Sims for quite some time to
>     add to his wonderful site. I have been slowly working on it and
>     will soon I hope get it to him.
>
>
>     Ira Erbs
>
>     Portland,OR
>
>     _______              _______
>          (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>     (_________________________)
>
>     BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>     A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>
>     Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>     On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 8:31 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
>
>         Cross-posting from BCF:
>
>         While getting ready to drop the rebuilt engine into my BJ8, I
>         noticed the 'throttle relay shaft'--yeah, the one under the
>         scuttle, all but impossible to get to with the engine
>         installed--was bent. 'Crap,' I thought, 'one more job to do
>         before I can get the engine in.' It turns out this was
>         serendipitous--first time this word's been used on the
>         List?--because as I inspected the shaft, I noticed that one of
>         the two brackets was also bent, and further inspection
>         revealed that the bush on the driver's side was way sloppy
>         (actually, pretty much gone). A quick check of the Moss
>         catalog showed 'N/A' for all the parts--I'm screwed, I
>         thought. Then, I remembered I'd bought a replacement
>         set--supposedly made of teflon, but they say 'nylon' on the
>         bag--but had given up on installing them because the
>         instructions showed 'through BN7 and BT7' (BJ7/8s need not
>         apply). I called BCS to see what they had, and John, their
>         parts guy said they'd work on BJ8s. So, I did some digging
>         and, although the photo of the instructions and applications
>         on Moss' web page showed 'though BN7 and BT7,' if you download
>         the instructions--5 pages!--they've been revised to show they
>         work on the 'J' cars.
>
>         Anyway, if anyone has the engine out of one of the later 6-cyl
>         cars I recommend you check these brackets and bushings. They
>         are bronze bonded to rubber and, although my car has nearly
>         200K miles, I suspect the life of these is determined as
>         much/more in years as in miles, as the rubber gets baked by
>         engine heat. The rubber on my driver's side bush was
>         completely dry, caked and brittle, and could conceivably have
>         resulted in a stuck throttle. The instructions are
>         intimidating--5 pages!--but, except for having to work under
>         the dash, which I hate, the job was pretty straightforward. I
>         managed to get the shaft reasonably straight, and the used
>         bracket I got from BCS was in good shape (though, in
>         hindsight, I probably could have straightened my bent one), so
>         now my Rube Goldberg-designed throttle works smooth and with
>         no slop.
>
>         Thought I'd pass this along since I hadn't seen this issue
>         discussed before. I'd long since replaced the rubber/bronze
>         bush on the shaft on the engine, and should never have to
>         worry about these again. Credit to to Eric Gruden who designed
>         these bushes, and to Moss for going the extra mile to provide
>         these, for a reasonable cost (about $13).
>
>         Bob
>

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