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If the rear drum brakes are adjusted too loose it will require a lot of pedal
travel before the pedal feels firm. Try tightening them a little & see if it
feels better. Also, adjusting them tight will assist in the bleeding process.
You can always back them off after you are sure all the air is out of the
system. Occasionally, when bleeding I have found that I need to push down the
brake break pedal very quickly to force air bubbles that are trapped at high
spots in the brake lines to move them down the line. If you push slowly the
fluid can simply flow past the bubble without moving the bubble. I also like
using the Ezeebleed system. I bought one about 15 years ago. It did not have a
lid (cap) that would screw onto the reservoir & seal tightly. That is a
necessity. I improvised & got it to work. Do they now include a tight fitting
cap for the Giriling reservoir?
Gary Hodson
-----Original Message-----
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Nov 26, 2015 2:49 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bugeye Brake Problem
Ezeebleed on the MBC or vacuum pump on the bleed nipples.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 26-11-2015 om 20:53 schreef John and Judy Carter:
I have a Bugeye that I have replaced all the front and rear rubber
including the master cylinder. New calipers on front and new rear
drums, springs, cylinders,etc.,etc. New rubber in clutch slave. After
bleeding using the two-man method I still am not satisfied with the
pedal feel. It still depresses about half way down although the stopping
power is pretty good. Is it possible
to get a really hard brake pedal in this car? Is there any sure-fire
way to bleed all the air out of the lines?
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<font color='black' size='2' face='arial'>
<div>If the rear drum brakes are adjusted too loose it will require a lot
of pedal travel before the pedal feels firm. Try tightening them a little &
see if it feels better. Also, adjusting them tight will assist in the bleeding
process. You can always back them off after you are sure all the air is out of
the system. Occasionally, when bleeding I have found that I need to push
down the brake break pedal very quickly to force air bubbles that are
trapped at high spots in the brake lines to move them down the line. If
you push slowly the fluid can simply flow past the bubble without moving the
bubble. I also like using the Ezeebleed system. I bought one about 15 years
ago. It did not have a lid (cap) that would screw onto the reservoir & seal
tightly. That is a necessity. I improvised & got it to work. Do
they now include a tight fitting cap for the Giriling reservoir?</div>
<div>Gary Hodson</div>
<div> </div>
<div style="color: black; font-family: arial,helvetica; font-size:
10pt;">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Thu, Nov 26, 2015 2:49 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bugeye Brake Problem<br>
<br>
<div id="AOLMsgPart_1.2_98290b8c-64b7-49e3-9aaf-4744cd82845c">
<div class="aolReplacedBody" bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Ezeebleed on the MBC or vacuum pump on
the bleed nipples.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
Op 26-11-2015 om 20:53 schreef John and Judy Carter:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="about:blank">
<div dir="ltr">I have a Bugeye that I have replaced all the front
and rear rubber including the master cylinder. New calipers on
front and new rear drums, springs, cylinders,etc.,etc. New
rubber in clutch slave. After bleeding using the two-man method
I still am not satisfied with the pedal feel. It still depresses
about half way down although the stopping power is pretty good.
Is it possible
<div>to get a really hard brake pedal in this car? Is there any
sure-fire way to bleed all the air out of the lines?<br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</font>
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