I don't agree with this. Using just one relay would require all the
headlamp current to still pass through the headlight switch and old
wiring.
Further, the use of a fusible link usually means that by the time the
link burns open the problem device is destroyed, wiring melted and the
now burned link hard to find, and needs to be cut out and be replaced.
Use circuit breakers and fuses.
Gordy
On 4/03/2012 1:13 PM, Jack Feldman wrote:
> I posted the following on the same subject to the MG list:
>
> ----------------------------
> I am all for adding relays to our car. I have had extensive
> electrical
> upgrading on my Healey and am waiting my next at the shop to get the
> same
> things done for the BGT. Turning on the ignition activates a 75A
> relay
> which switches power directly from the battery terminal on the
> solenoid to
> an eight position fuse block.
>
> You only need one relay for both high and low beams. Most relays have
> two
> sets of contacts. One normally closed, and one normally open. The low
> beams
> go through the normally closed contacts. When you want the high beams
> you
> activate the relay and the normally open contacts close and the
> normally
> closed contacts open. That way the most used low beams are activated
> passively and the relay is only used for high beams.. In the unlikely
> event
> of a relay failure, you always have the low beams.
>
> BTW, The 75A realy is fused, and the light relay is activated by the
> light
> switch with the current for the headlights coming directly from the
> battery
> through a fuse on the block. The block uses blade fuses.
>
> The block and relays came for www.ties4less.com. No interest other
> than a
> satisfied customer.
> -------------------------------------
> As for fusing, modern cars use a fusible link that opens when there
> is a
> short. I prefer a circuit breaker which fits into the fuse block,
> just as a
> bladed fuse does.
>
> Jack
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