There is supposed to be a ring-shaped gasket that goes under the thermo, in
addition to the 'regular' gasket that seals
the housing. Don't know if it's actually necessary--diagram shows it with a
bellows-type type thermo--but it's in the
parts books. Moss part# 296-300. Put some anti-seize on the studs so it's an
easier job next time.
Don't be surprised if the car doesn't run much hotter. My BJ8 with a 180deg
thermo stays below 180 on cold days--50degF
or so--here in the Bay Area.
bs
Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Michael -
>
> Yes that's correct. Make sure the thermostat gasket is very thin
> paper and when bolting back on don't over tighten as you can warp the
> housing, it is made from very soft cast aluminum. Some hylomar or
> silicone is a good idea.
>
> Alan
>
> On 1/16/10, awgertoo@aol.com <awgertoo@aol.com> wrote:
>> I need to change the thermostat in my wife's BN7--it is pretty cold here in
>> MD and the car warms up very slowly and ultimately will not get over 140
>> degrees--undoubtedly it is stuck open.
>>
>> I have a new 180 degree thermo and gasket. Am I correct that all I need
>> to do is to drain the water level down to where it is below the level of
>> the
>> thermostat, pull the old thermo and gasket and replace them with the new
>> 180 degree one and the new gasket, bolt the thermo cover back on, refill
>> the
>> radiator and run?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
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