I totally agree with Andy re lifting points for the entire engine and
gearbox of the six cylinder models. One point I would add is to make sure
everything is bolted down tightly against the rocker pedestals. If they are
left loose to allow the brackets to swivel, etc. you may bend the studs and
/or crack a pedestal.
I'd also add that the use of an adjustable fulcrum lifting device as in
Andy's pictures is also a "must have". The angle of adjustment as everything
goes in needs to be altered as it goes, and this device will allow that to
happen safely and effectively, shroud in place or not, gearbox attached or
not..
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "andy pole" <ampole@hotmail.com>
To: <fsufan1952@yahoo.com>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl + trans lift point
> Don
>
>
>
> Just use the valve cover studs, heres my lift into my bj8:
>
>
>
> http://www.austin-healey3000.com/thebigliftengine.htm
>
>
>
> it went a lot easier than I thought it would be, with the help of a load
> leveller attached to the hoist, just make sure the hoist can lift 320kgs.
> The
> awkward bit is adjusting the angle, dropping the engine a couple of
> inches,
> then rolling the car forward 2 inches using the front tyre to move, then
> keep
> repeating, its also easier with both engine mounts off. Ideally you need 2
> people, one to guide the gearbox and stop it rotating, the other to
> operate
> the hoist and move the car. I got my wife to just check the clearance on
> the
> steering column as it went further in.
>
>
>
> It was easy to align and mate the gearbox out of the car so I reccomend
> this
> way.
>
>
>
> Will not be on the list tomorrow, as wife is being induced and have to go
> back
> first thing in the morning!
>
>
>
> cheers Andy
>
>
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