Brian: Here is a response to this question that was provided to The List
by Michael Salter on 1/23/2005. I would add that you may be lucky in that
the nut may hold and not turn as you turn the Allen wrench or you could get
enough hold on it with an open end wrench or long nose pliers, or even your
fingers. Worth a try before removing the outer sheath of the choke cable
from the splitter.
"There a couple of little tricks to this one. If your choke cable assembly
is
an original you when you pull the inner cable out completely you find that a
hex (Allen) key inserted into the hole can be used to tighten the nut.
To keep the nut tight I usually install a 5/8 x 11 stamped spring steel lock
nut. These grip more the more they are tightened and will completely solve
the problem of the nut loosening off.
To grip the nut or the lock nut use a 5/8" spark plug socket with the cable
outer thread through the square drive hole of the socket and a wrench on the
hex area of the plug socket. This will of course require removing the cable
outer from the splitter assembly which can be a bear to refit.
Refitting is made easier by removing the splitter assembly from the
firewall, installing the primary cable then refitting the splitter."
(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA
1967 3000 MKIII HBJ8L39031
> [Original Message]
> From: Brian Drab <brian_drab@infoserve.net>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 9/15/2006 11:10:37 AM
> Subject: Choke cable
>
> A very quick question.
> I have a BJ8 and I notice the coke cable mount appears to be loose and
turns
> easily. It is difficult to "set" the choke. In addition there appears
to be
> a return spring hooked up the front carb choke mechanism which does not
appear
> to be stock.
> My question is..how do I tighten up the choke cable outer sheath in the
dash?
> There doesn't appear to be a nut or even threads on the part that sticks
> through to the back of the dash. Second part... is there supposed to be a
> choke return spring?
>
> Thanks
> Brian
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