Bob,
I can't comment on your welding question but I would like to bring something
very important to mind when dealing with most commercial dogleg patch
panels.
Very often the curvature of the panel contour does not match that of the
door. In addition the horizontal portion of the bottom flange that turns
under to go in to fasten to the inner sill flange needs to taper from being
wider at the front edge, to much narrower by the time it gets to the rear
edge.
In many of the patch panels they either haven't given this enough taper or
have made it actually parallel. This results in the trailing lower edge
kicking out at the back instead of remaining a constant sweeping edge in
relation to the bottom curvature of the front wing, sweeping in through the
curvature of the outer rocker, and smoothing into the dogleg.
This is rather difficult to describe, but once you get the idea, you will
notice how many cars are running around out there with this smooth line lost
into a hooked out dogleg edge.
I've enclosed a picture showing the smooth sweeping bottom edge that should
be maintained.
Something to keep in mind.
Rich Chrysler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 9:09 AM
Subject: Body Work - Welding
> I'm getting ready to attempt to install patch panels on the rear wings
> (the front
> "dog leg" were there is often rust). The patch panels are "joggled"
> (flanged) at the
> top for a joggle/overlap, but I'd really like to cut the joggle off and
> butt-weld. I
> have a small wire welder (not MIG, but capable), and I'm wondering if
> anybody
> has tried this and what their results were. In particular, I'm concerned
> about
> excessive warpage (my goal is to use as little filler as possible).
> I know of the "TwentyGauge" wire that should work better than flux wire,
> but
> I'm tempted to try this with just flux wire. Anybody been able to do this
> cleanly?
>
> TIA,
> bs
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