Randy,
I'll chime in here. I have participated in multiple restos and have
used/observed the same procedure in each. Am assuming here that the
chassis/frame is all done.
1. Strip all steel body parts with blasting. Shrouds left on for now.
2. Make metal patches and repairs. Of course, this may require refitment
of a piece to the car here and there.
3. Prime all steel pieces with self etching primer.
4. Reassemable everything with most fasteners and work on the dents,
dings, curvature, gaps, etc until all is like I want it.
5. Remove steel parts, prime again, and paint inside. Lay a heavy layer
on the fender flanges and other flanges!
6. Remove shrouds, self etching prime, and paint inside with heavy layer
on flanges.
7. Reassemable all pieces. Check on all final fits. Door gap 3/16 if I
can get it but not less than 1/8!
8. Remove hood and trunk lid, prime and paint outside. Painting inside
again is optional.
9. Install beading leaving it about 3/4 or so high. Using tape is OK but
if you are real careful and have help (4 hands) it is no biggie.
10. Do necessary masking and taping to keep overspray where you don't
want it. For example in fender wells, trunk area, cockpit, underneath,
engine comp, etc.
11. Allow to cure for as long as possible before final assembly, at least 2
weeks.
I think that describes it. Again just my approach and that of a couple
painters and body men.
Keith Pennell
> Fellow Healey Listers,
> I have been busy this past week installing my front fenders on my 63 BJ-7.
> I primered and painted the inside of the fenders already. I put three
coats of
> an enamel on the flanges of the fenders as well as the shroud. I figure
that
> this should slow down the electolitic process to a trickle (no pun
intended).
> I read in the archives that some of you used dum dum putty or silicone. I
> thought about going that route but went with paint instead because I don't
> think that I can afford room for any more material in between the flanges.
> Anyway, The fourth bolt from the headlight back is a real &@*%! bitch to
get at
> and get tight. I have a system with custom ground and shortened open end
> wrenches, sockets, wobbles, 3/8-1/4 adapters and all kinds of crap just to
get
> at the fourth bolt as well as the sixth bolt. For the fourth bolt I start
it
> from up and underneath the outside of the fender, then tighten it from
inside
> the engine compartment, up and over the ducting.
> I was wondering if anybody has easier methods for this. The skin on my
right
> forth finger and thumb is almost down to the bone, and the dry Wisconsin
winter
> doesn't help matters any.
> My driver side fender looks real nice and the door gap is good at about
3/16 an
> inch or so, if that is right.
> My passenger side fender is coming along nicely now. I had to remove it a
few
> times to tweak it just so. A little more curve here, a little less there.
> I plan on starting the bodywork this weekend as far as putty and sanding,
then
> primer with a high build Marson product. I have a few basic questions.
> 1). What should a good door gap be 3/16, 1/4?
> 2). What are the best methods to install the fourth bolt, or which
specific
> tools work best?
> 3). Is it best to paint the car with the fender bolts loose, then after
paint is
> dry, slide in beading and tighten bolts?
>
> Thanks in advance!!!!
>
> Randy Dickson
> Healey Archaeologist
> 63 BJ-7
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