Fellow Healey Listers,
I have been busy this past week installing my front fenders on my 63 BJ-7.
I primered and painted the inside of the fenders already. I put three coats of
an enamel on the flanges of the fenders as well as the shroud. I figure that
this should slow down the electolitic process to a trickle (no pun intended).
I read in the archives that some of you used dum dum putty or silicone. I
thought about going that route but went with paint instead because I don't
think that I can afford room for any more material in between the flanges.
Anyway, The fourth bolt from the headlight back is a real &@*%! bitch to get at
and get tight. I have a system with custom ground and shortened open end
wrenches, sockets, wobbles, 3/8-1/4 adapters and all kinds of crap just to get
at the fourth bolt as well as the sixth bolt. For the fourth bolt I start it
from up and underneath the outside of the fender, then tighten it from inside
the engine compartment, up and over the ducting.
I was wondering if anybody has easier methods for this. The skin on my right
forth finger and thumb is almost down to the bone, and the dry Wisconsin winter
doesn't help matters any.
My driver side fender looks real nice and the door gap is good at about 3/16 an
inch or so, if that is right.
My passenger side fender is coming along nicely now. I had to remove it a few
times to tweak it just so. A little more curve here, a little less there.
I plan on starting the bodywork this weekend as far as putty and sanding, then
primer with a high build Marson product. I have a few basic questions.
1). What should a good door gap be 3/16, 1/4?
2). What are the best methods to install the fourth bolt, or which specific
tools work best?
3). Is it best to paint the car with the fender bolts loose, then after paint is
dry, slide in beading and tighten bolts?
Thanks in advance!!!!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
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