Randy,
I can't answer the 1st two questions for you, but I can tell you that most of
the listers approach the fender bead installation as you have described. -And
word is that they have no problems with scratching or chipping due to the tabs
or bead.
When My car was paintedthe bead was installed while the car was in primer, and
left slightly high. The bead was masked off very carefully, using a plastic 3M
pinstriping tape, being careful that the masking was no where near the body
surface. Once painted and thoroughly dry, the bead was pulled down tight to
the seam and the tape pulled off. This worked great for me, but other listers
have expressed concern that if the bead or the tape are too close to the
surface of the body, that this could leave a ridge of paint along the seam.
They had also indicated that with care, my concern that the bead / tabs
scratching the paint is unfounded.
I will admit, the way I did it is more labor intensive, but I guess done
carefully, both means work.
David W. Jones
'62 Mk II BT7 tricarb
Cumberland, RI USA
From: dicksonr@uwm.edu
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 11:43 PM
Subject: front fender installation, door gaps etc.
Fellow Healey Listers,
I have been busy this past week installing my front fenders on my 63 BJ-7.
I primered and painted the inside of the fenders already. I put three coats
of
an enamel on the flanges of the fenders as well as the shroud. I figure
that
this should slow down the electolitic process to a trickle (no pun
intended).
I read in the archives that some of you used dum dum putty or silicone. I
thought about going that route but went with paint instead because I don't
think that I can afford room for any more material in between the flanges.
Anyway, The fourth bolt from the headlight back is a real &@*%! bitch to get
at
and get tight. I have a system with custom ground and shortened open end
wrenches, sockets, wobbles, 3/8-1/4 adapters and all kinds of crap just to
get
at the fourth bolt as well as the sixth bolt. For the fourth bolt I start
it
from up and underneath the outside of the fender, then tighten it from
inside
the engine compartment, up and over the ducting.
I was wondering if anybody has easier methods for this. The skin on my
right
forth finger and thumb is almost down to the bone, and the dry Wisconsin
winter
doesn't help matters any.
My driver side fender looks real nice and the door gap is good at about 3/16
an
inch or so, if that is right.
My passenger side fender is coming along nicely now. I had to remove it a
few
times to tweak it just so. A little more curve here, a little less there.
I plan on starting the bodywork this weekend as far as putty and sanding,
then
primer with a high build Marson product. I have a few basic questions.
1). What should a good door gap be 3/16, 1/4?
2). What are the best methods to install the fourth bolt, or which specific
tools work best?
3). Is it best to paint the car with the fender bolts loose, then after
paint is
dry, slide in beading and tighten bolts?
Thanks in advance!!!!
Randy Dickson
Healey Archaeologist
63 BJ-7
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