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I've had no issue with brass compressing / creeping. It's how I got my
protrusion set.
- Tony
On 5/15/2023 5:19 AM, Philip Gott wrote:
> Thanks, Tony;
> Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the easiest and
> most precise solution. Â Several others have made the same suggestion
> to use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of creep in brass or
> copper. What is the experience you all have had? Does the creep take a
> set after a while or do you need to continually retorque the head? Â Is
> there a similar issue with solid copper head gaskets?
> The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon and Sean
> Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has the correct
> thickness (.010â??). Â Just hoping I donâ??t need to reduce piston
> compression height as wellâ?¦.
> Regards,
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the figure 8
>> gaskets to tune the protrusion. You can get brass shim stock from
>> local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with scissors /
>> snips. I do separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders don't really
>> need the gasket combined into a fig 8 one.
>>
>> Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more fiddly.Â
>> You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.
>>
>> Regards, Tony Drews
>>
>> On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via Fot wrote:
>>> You can machine the cylinder seat the required amount. I have a set
>>> of mandrels I made and do this frequently on the lathe.
>>>
>>> Steve Yott
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Steve Yott
>>>
>>>
>>> -------- Original message --------
>>> From: Philip Gott via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
>>> Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00)
>>> To: Friends Of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011
>>>
>>> Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
>>> .011â??? The head has been staked per Kasâ??s book.
>>> I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
>>> delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
>>> installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
>>> bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
>>> assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble? I
>>> donâ??t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will use
>>> Hylomar on a .020â?? steel head gasket with the raised corrugating
>>> around the oil and water galleys.
>>> The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in â??old reliableâ??
>>> during a test day.
>>> Please advise.
>>> Thanks and regards,
>>> Phil Gott
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
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>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony@tonydrews.com
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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<p>I've had no issue with brass compressing / creeping. It's how I
got my protrusion set.</p>
<p>- Tony<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/15/2023 5:19 AM, Philip Gott
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:F3A1EAE3-1BF2-49E6-AF57-0B797DAE0317@aol.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
Thanks, Tony;
<div>Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the
easiest and most precise solution. Â Several others have made the
same suggestion to use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of
creep in brass or copper. What is the experience you all have
had? Does the creep take a set after a while or do you need to
continually retorque the head? Â Is there a similar issue with
solid copper head gaskets?</div>
<div>The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon and
Sean Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has
the correct thickness (.010â??). Â Just hoping I donâ??t need to
reduce piston compression height as wellâ?¦.</div>
<div>Regards,</div>
<div>Phil<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony
Drews via Fot <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net";><fot@autox.team.net></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
<p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for
the figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion. You can get
brass shim stock from local hardware store or McMaster
Carr and cut out with scissors / snips. I do separate O
shapes, the siamesed cylinders don't really need the
gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p>
<p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
fiddly. You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
<p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve
Yott via Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:20230514201811.9280BA0C8B@autox.team.net">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the
required amount. I have a set of mandrels I made and do
this frequently on the lathe.</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div id="composer_signature" dir="auto">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
<div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Steve
Yott</div>
</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000"
align="left">
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"><fot@autox.team.net></a>
</div>
<div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:fot@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"><fot@autox.team.net></a>
</div>
<div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves
protruding .011â??? The head has been staked per Kasâ??s book.
<br>
I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine
shop delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris
Marx seal installed. It has been decked already. Also line
bored and cam bearings and cam installed and timed. I want
to know if I can assemble this with confidence or if I am
asking for trouble? I donâ??t anticipate problems with oil
or water sealing as I will use Hylomar on a .020â?? steel
head gasket with the raised corrugating around the oil and
water galleys.<br>
The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in â??old
reliableâ?? during a test day.<br>
Please advise.<br>
Thanks and regards,<br>
Phil Gott<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
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