--===============5366986157314136798==
boundary="Apple-Mail=_CAF86B3E-9D70-4FEE-9369-6341FB2FDEDA"
--Apple-Mail=_CAF86B3E-9D70-4FEE-9369-6341FB2FDEDA
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
charset=utf-8
Thanks, Terry, really great advice. As many of you pointed out, I had =
the oil weights reversed winter and summer, so summer, 30w, winter 20w, =
though the manual says I can probably continue using 20W all summer. =
The oiling system is definitely splash at low speeds, with =E2=80=9Cdipper=
s=E2=80=9D attached to each connecting rod big end that scoop up some =
oil and direct it at the rod bearings. At higher speeds, there=E2=80=99s =
a pipe and nozzles off the oil galley that aim oil at the dippers to =
increase the flow - the manual has directions on aiming the nozzles and =
apparently there=E2=80=99s a special =E2=80=9Ctarget=E2=80=9D jig where =
one can adjust the nozzles to hit the target, with dire consequences if =
they aren=E2=80=99t aimed right. Of course, the oil gauge only goes =
from 0-30 psi, so we have a low pressure system here.
Steering - I re-read the paragraph and it starts with =E2=80=9Cthis is =
filled at the factory with a special all season gear lube and, to =
paraphrase =E2=80=9Cyou shouldn=E2=80=99t need to mess with it". After =
73 years, however, I=E2=80=99m going to check. It also says =E2=80=9Cuse=
a lube that will not =E2=80=9Cchannel=E2=80=9D at low temps or cause =
=E2=80=9Chard steering=E2=80=9D. I=E2=80=99ll try 90W and see what =
happens. You are correct about pulling the steering box - the =
directions start with =E2=80=9Cremove the steering wheel=E2=80=9D and go =
on from there. However, steering is quite loose and there are three =
separate lash adjustments, according to the manual, so it=E2=80=99s =
probably best done on a bench.
Brakes - the wheel and master cylinders were surprisingly good, so I got =
rebuild kits, which look to be USA made.
While I=E2=80=99m boring you guys and gals with all this non-Triumph =
stuff, the manual has four pages on cleaning the upholstery, including =
categories for battery acids, blood, candy, chewing gum, paint and =
lacquer, fruits, grease and oil, ice cream, writing ink, iron rust, =
lipstick, tar and water spots. Solvents for cleaning include benzene, =
ether, sodium bifluoride ( I always have that around), carbon =
tetrachloride, and ammonia. =20
On May 23, 2020, at 8:36 AM, Terry Stetler via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> =
wrote:
If I may, I have lots of time under the hood of vehicles of this =
vintage. As new it probably did not use detergent motor oil, and a =
straight 30 in summer would be the correct grade. Over time there is no =
way to know what was dumped in that crankcase, so a non detergent oil =
would be a safe bet. If the car came with service records it may shed =
some light on things. Also, do remember that the rods are splash oiled =
on a Chevy six of that era, so drive her gently. Full pressure oiling =
did not happen till 1953 or 1954 ish. If you ever have the engine =
rebuilt, then a good modern multi grade oil, with high levels of ZDDP, =
is the way to go, just like our racing TRs.
=20
As to the gear box, diff, and steering box. Any good non synthetic gear =
lube of the appropriate grade will be just fine. Most modern gear oils =
are 85w90, and that=E2=80=99s OK. The steering box is always an issue =
as usually, if they are original, they are pretty much guaranteed to =
leak around every place they can leak, and hence will not hold liquid =
lubes for long, without a rebuild. The =E2=80=9CAll Purpose=E2=80=9D =
thing is curious. It=E2=80=99s possible that they either mean gear oil =
or grease. I know one of the =E2=80=9Cwork arounds=E2=80=9D that old =
timers, and some not so old timers use on early Fords if the box wont =
hold gear lube, is to pack it with wheel bearing grease. It=E2=80=99s =
still a frequent practice, as getting the steering gear out of these =
older machines is fiddly at best and downright difficult in most cases. =20=
=20
A word about those old drum brakes. If you have a really good brake =
shop near you, make sure to have the drums trued and have the new shoes =
arced (matched) to the drums. This will save many headaches in getting =
the thing to stop without pulling you into the ditch or oncoming =
traffic. Also on the subject of brakes, if you are going to put in new =
wheel cylinders, no matter who you get them from, they all come from =
China, disassemble them and make sure that the seals are proper lubed =
with a brake assembly lube, and make sure that the hydraulic line port =
and the bleeder port are actually drilled all the way through. Really, =
this is a thing. I have had several wheel cylinders from big name =
=E2=80=9Creputable=E2=80=9D manufacturers that have not had the ports =
properly drilled through the casting, or had the bleeder screw seating =
surface not be concentric with the threads for the screw. It=E2=80=99s =
much easier to check them first, than after you have them on the car and =
all the shoes/linkages attached.
=20
Have fun with her, I love the 40=E2=80=99s domestic cars a lot.
=20
Terry Stetler
=20
Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986> for =
Windows 10
=20
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 7:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Old Cars
=20
Great car. a friend has one similar; it's taken 3 generations of babies =
home from the maternity hospital!
As for oil: something this old may require non detergent oil. My old =
tractors use it. I'm not sure when multi grade detergent oils came out. =
Probably one of our bunch would know. Or I can contact a local oil rep =
and find out.
I'd probably stick with 30w in the summer. And park it in the winter!
Great car. Enjoy it. And bear in mind: it won't handle like the white =
car in the background!
Cheers Bill
On 5/22/2020 11:02 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote:
Ok, so this is not a Triumph story, but I recently got a 1947 Chevy =
Fleetmaster in my garage (which means I bought it a year ago, but it=E2=80=
=99s been sitting in the owner=E2=80=99s garage until now). It=E2=80=99s =
the oldest vehicle I=E2=80=99ve ever owned, by two years (had a =E2=80=994=
9 ford pickup once) and I love working on it. It=E2=80=99s so simple, =
and plenty of space to get at everything. Plus, this came from the =
family of the original owner, has been garaged all its life, and while =
far from pristine, it=E2=80=99s not rusty. Garaged all its life. I =
haven=E2=80=99t stripped or sheered a bolt yet.=20
=20
So, the highlights - the engine has no oil filter. Just change the oil =
every 2000 miles, more on dirt roads (says the manual). Lever shocks =
all around. Vacuum wipers, no turn signals (not sure about brake =
lights), manually engaged starter solenoid through a floor button. =
Front wheel bearings are ball bearings!!!. 4.5=E2=80=9Dx16=E2=80=9D =
wheels, skinny bias plies (with a date code of 1984, definitely due to =
replace those if I ever go over 25 mph). Right now the brakes are =
apart, shocks need to go to White Post for a rebuild, gas tank and =
radiator at the local shop.
=20
Here=E2=80=99s a question - the manual calls for straight 20w oil for =
the engine, 30 in the winter. Should I run 20w, or 10-30?
Gear oils - straight 90W is what=E2=80=99s called for. What=E2=80=99s a =
good non-synthetic? Steering gear calls for =E2=80=9CAll Purpose=E2=80=9D=
lubricant - WTH?
=20
Having fun in the garage these days!!!
=20
=
<F7292FE4BEB244F49B93F98CD9018BCA.jpg><05A8CD260D344D7B88855E1D578F2437.jp=
g>
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=20
http://www.fot-racing.com =
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" =
class=3D"">Thanks, Terry, really great advice. As many of you =
pointed out, I had the oil weights reversed winter and summer, so =
summer, 30w, winter 20w, though the manual says I can probably continue =
using 20W all summer. The oiling system is definitely splash at =
low speeds, with =E2=80=9Cdippers=E2=80=9D attached to each connecting =
rod big end that scoop up some oil and direct it at the rod bearings. =
At higher speeds, there=E2=80=99s a pipe and nozzles off the oil =
galley that aim oil at the dippers to increase the flow - the manual has =
directions on aiming the nozzles and apparently there=E2=80=99s a =
special =E2=80=9Ctarget=E2=80=9D jig where one can adjust the nozzles to =
hit the target, with dire consequences if they aren=E2=80=99t aimed =
right. Of course, the oil gauge only goes from 0-30 psi, so we =
have a low pressure system here.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">Steering - I re-read the paragraph and it starts with =E2=80=9C=
this is filled at the factory with a special all season gear lube and, =
to paraphrase =E2=80=9Cyou shouldn=E2=80=99t need to mess with it". =
After 73 years, however, I=E2=80=99m going to check. It also =
says =E2=80=9Cuse a lube that will not =E2=80=9Cchannel=E2=80=9D =
at low temps or cause =E2=80=9Chard steering=E2=80=9D. I=E2=80=99ll =
try 90W and see what happens. You are correct about pulling the =
steering box - the directions start with =E2=80=9Cremove the steering =
wheel=E2=80=9D and go on from there. However, steering is quite =
loose and there are three separate lash adjustments, according to the =
manual, so it=E2=80=99s probably best done on a bench.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Brakes - the wheel and =
master cylinders were surprisingly good, so I got rebuild kits, which =
look to be USA made.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
class=3D"">While I=E2=80=99m boring you guys and gals with all this =
non-Triumph stuff, the manual has four pages on cleaning the upholstery, =
including categories for battery acids, blood, candy, chewing gum, paint =
and lacquer, fruits, grease and oil, ice cream, writing ink, iron rust, =
lipstick, tar and water spots. Solvents for cleaning include =
benzene, ether, sodium bifluoride ( I always have that around), carbon =
tetrachloride, and ammonia. <br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On May 23, 2020, at 8:36 AM, Terry Stetler via Fot <<a =
href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a>> =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
class=3D"WordSection1" style=3D"page: WordSection1; caret-color: rgb(0, =
0, 0); font-family: Verdana-Bold; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none;"><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">If I may, =
I have lots of time under the hood of vehicles of this vintage. As =
new it probably did not use detergent motor oil, and a straight 30 =
in summer would be the correct grade. Over time there is no way to =
know what was dumped in that crankcase, so a non detergent oil would be =
a safe bet. If the car came with service records it may shed some =
light on things. Also, do remember that the rods are splash oiled on a =
Chevy six of that era, so drive her gently. Full pressure oiling =
did not happen till 1953 or 1954 ish. If you ever have the engine =
rebuilt, then a good modern multi grade oil, with high levels of ZDDP, =
is the way to go, just like our racing TRs.</div><div style=3D"margin: =
0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""> </o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in =
0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
class=3D"">As to the gear box, diff, and steering box. Any good =
non synthetic gear lube of the appropriate grade will be just =
fine. Most modern gear oils are 85w90, and that=E2=80=99s =
OK. The steering box is always an issue as usually, if they are =
original, they are pretty much guaranteed to leak around every place =
they can leak, and hence will not hold liquid lubes for long, without a =
rebuild. The =E2=80=9CAll Purpose=E2=80=9D thing is curious. =
It=E2=80=99s possible that they either mean gear oil or grease. I =
know one of the =E2=80=9Cwork arounds=E2=80=9D that old timers, and some =
not so old timers use on early Fords if the box wont hold gear lube, is =
to pack it with wheel bearing grease. It=E2=80=99s still a =
frequent practice, as getting the steering gear out of these older =
machines is fiddly at best and downright difficult in most cases. =
</div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D""> </o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">A word =
about those old drum brakes. If you have a really good brake shop =
near you, make sure to have the drums trued and have the new shoes arced =
(matched) to the drums. This will save many headaches in getting the =
thing to stop without pulling you into the ditch or oncoming =
traffic. Also on the subject of brakes, if you are going to put in =
new wheel cylinders, no matter who you get them from, they all come from =
China, disassemble them and make sure that the seals are proper lubed =
with a brake assembly lube, and make sure that the hydraulic line port =
and the bleeder port are actually drilled all the way through. =
Really, this is a thing. I have had several wheel cylinders from =
big name =E2=80=9Creputable=E2=80=9D manufacturers that have not had the =
ports properly drilled through the casting, or had the bleeder screw =
seating surface not be concentric with the threads for the screw. =
It=E2=80=99s much easier to check them first, than after you have them =
on the car and all the shoes/linkages attached.</div><div style=3D"margin:=
0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""> </o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in =
0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
class=3D"">Have fun with her, I love the 40=E2=80=99s domestic cars a =
lot.</div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D""> </o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Terry =
Stetler</div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D""> </o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Sent =
from<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><a =
href=3D"https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986"; style=3D"color: =
blue; text-decoration: underline;" class=3D"">Mail</a><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span>for Windows 10</div><div =
style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: =
Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p class=3D""> </o:p></div><div =
style=3D"border-style: solid none none; border-top-width: 1pt; =
border-top-color: rgb(225, 225, 225); padding: 3pt 0in 0in;" =
class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; border: none; padding: 0in;" =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">From:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b><a =
href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" class=3D"">Bill Tobin via Fot</a><br =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">Sent:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b>Saturday, May 23, 2020 =
7:47 AM<br class=3D""><b class=3D"">To:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b><a =
href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" class=3D"">fot@autox.team.net</a><br =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">Subject:<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span></b>Re: [Fot] Old =
Cars</div></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D""> </o:p></div><p class=3D"">Great car. a friend has one =
similar; it's taken 3 generations of babies home from the maternity =
hospital!</p><p class=3D"">As for oil: something this old may require =
non detergent oil. My old tractors use it. I'm not sure when multi grade =
detergent oils came out. Probably one of our bunch would know. Or I can =
contact a local oil rep and find out.</p><p class=3D"">I'd probably =
stick with 30w in the summer. And park it in the winter!</p><p =
class=3D"">Great car. Enjoy it. And bear in mind: it won't handle like =
the white car in the background!</p><p class=3D"">Cheers Bill</p><div =
class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">On 5/22/2020 11:02 PM, =
Scott Janzen via Fot wrote:<o:p class=3D""></o:p></div></div><blockquote =
style=3D"margin-top: 5pt; margin-bottom: 5pt;" class=3D""><div =
style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: =
Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Ok, so this is not a Triumph story, but =
I recently got a 1947 Chevy Fleetmaster in my garage (which means I =
bought it a year ago, but it=E2=80=99s been sitting in the owner=E2=80=99s=
garage until now). It=E2=80=99s the oldest vehicle I=E2=80=99ve =
ever owned, by two years (had a =E2=80=9949 ford pickup once) and I love =
working on it. It=E2=80=99s so simple, and plenty of space to get =
at everything. Plus, this came from the family of the original =
owner, has been garaged all its life, and while far from pristine, =
it=E2=80=99s not rusty. Garaged all its life. I haven=E2=80=99=
t stripped or sheered a bolt yet.<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space"> </span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in =
0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""> </o:p></div></div><div class=3D""><div =
style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: =
Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">So, the highlights - the engine has no =
oil filter. Just change the oil every 2000 miles, more on dirt roads =
(says the manual). Lever shocks all around. Vacuum wipers, =
no turn signals (not sure about brake lights), manually engaged starter =
solenoid through a floor button. Front wheel bearings are ball =
bearings!!!. 4.5=E2=80=9Dx16=E2=80=9D wheels, skinny bias plies =
(with a date code of 1984, definitely due to replace those if I ever go =
over 25 mph). Right now the brakes are apart, shocks need to go to =
White Post for a rebuild, gas tank and radiator at the local shop.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div></div><div class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0in =
0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""> </o:p></div></div><div class=3D""><div =
style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: =
Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Here=E2=80=99s a question - the manual =
calls for straight 20w oil for the engine, 30 in the winter. =
Should I run 20w, or 10-30?<o:p class=3D""></o:p></div></div><div =
class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Gear oils - straight 90W =
is what=E2=80=99s called for. What=E2=80=99s a good non-synthetic? =
Steering gear calls for =E2=80=9CAll Purpose=E2=80=9D lubricant - =
WTH?<o:p class=3D""></o:p></div></div><div class=3D""><div =
style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: =
Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D""> </o:p></div></div><div class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: =
0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
class=3D"">Having fun in the garage these days!!!<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div></div><div class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0in =
0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
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style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: =
Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><span =
id=3D"cid:image001.jpg@01D630D9.22A985E0"><F7292FE4BEB244F49B93F98CD901=
8BCA.jpg></span><span =
id=3D"cid:image002.jpg@01D630D9.22A985E0"><05A8CD260D344D7B88855E1D578F=
2437.jpg></span><o:p class=3D""></o:p></div></div><div style=3D"margin:=
0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><br class=3D""><o:p class=3D""></o:p></div><pre =
style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 10pt; font-family: =
"Courier New";" =
class=3D"">_______________________________________________</pre><pre =
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"Courier New";" class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"=
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0.0001pt; font-size: 10pt; font-family: "Courier New";" =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""> </o:p></pre><pre style=3D"margin: 0in =
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class=3D""><a =
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class=3D"">Donate: <a =
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--===============5366986157314136798==
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_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com
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--===============5366986157314136798==--
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