We have found a one person shop in North Branch Mn--"The Clutch
Doctor"--he can build most anything. We us a"One Piece" disc--no
rivets-no 'Marcel" with ceramic buttons. Don't need "Marcel" in the
fins for smooth takoffs--ie street. Ceramic buttons run cooler and can
take more oil. Must use steel insert if using aluminum flywheel. Sprung
center section is advised for road racing--ie not solid disc.
I used to build my our clutches when I worked for a clutch
manufacturer. We built 100M units per year. I used to give clinics on
clutches---sooo Questions 763-684-1617. John Hagen TR-4 - TVR
Grantura
Clutch Doctors' name is Trevor @ 651-674-4175
On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 9:35 PM, Scott Janzen wrote:
> I ran the Schenley Park GP in Pittsburgh this past weekend - a
> fantastic
> event, racing on city streets- I'll be back.
> It is, however, hard on the car, and once again I've found the weak
> link.
> The clutch disc center basically ripped out - the metal around only
> one of
> three rivets was still intact.
> So, it's a stock disc and pressure plate, never given trouble before,
> probably
> on its 3rd-4th season. Should I just replace it, or is there an
> easily
> adaptable upgrade that's stronger?
>
> It's an 8-1/2" disc, 23 spline - the car has a TR4-6 gearbox in it
> (the GT6
> box was the old weak link) and a good aluminum flywheel I got from Ted
> that
> I'd hate to give up on.
>
> What is being used out there - given that I have a TR4-6 box with the
> cross-shaft/fork arrangement, I'm guessing whatever you TR4 racers
> have done
> might work too.
>
> Scott
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