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Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions

To: tr4@wi.rr.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions
From: Bud R <levilevi@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2012 10:16:49 -0700
Cc: 'FOT' <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <5E.73.23502.12B7CD05@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> s=q20121106; t=1356715012; bh=rqVUnsLbPlg8c7/GtxjfcSyPs5vDMLlGi/uNty9T9Ps=; h=Received:Received:Message-Id:From:To:Content-Type:Subject: Mime-Version:Date; b=VrfYsT+ELpRN2rUMftUfs96IQrw5b0jqsrUtfR2W7Wm9wWaQkPThwVmcAhGB1rH7I dcxe0ffeVDuYJDEZJG9NAom7IZ9/yEtVIYEBUo1l6T+DY2BOLjnGSE2WFOEsyWyDBN +HFk9Ku48z7qqWacqMiWmC00EpjqlPF+zu8bSqMgIZBsib9DxX300Kw35p6zRb/Jjf 6erJ4TqOPk6GpRhUuQPFhW3mTL7nnmFQRuLWnYT9Uz3zw+Goizqijq009FAUtiGYmf DvNbgFGo5M2+25m1A69sSx33k/CUBG2SO5y43Xg2JPtm6DQlgc2EHdevcK0+xTdLFC D9SLMbd3mIeZw==
I'm a "Right Stuff" user too.

It works great and I've even used it to stop leaks on the outer edge  
of a timing cover that I didn't have the time or inclination to go  
through the whole process of removing all the things needed to pull  
the cover.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Dec 27, 2012, at 9:45 AM, Steve Yott wrote:

> I use a thin layer of the "Right Stuff".... I put that crap on
> everything!!!!  As per the lady in the hot sauce commercial...
>
> Since it takes awhile to get everything in place and bolted down you  
> don't
> want to use a fast set gasket sealer.  I really like the Right Stuff  
> as it
> will not fail you and does take a little while to setup.
>
> Steve Yott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net]  
> On
> Behalf Of Dennis Delap
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2012 10:14 AM
> To: Bob Kramer
> Cc: FOT
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions
>
> Speaking of the figure 8 gasket - what are you all using as a  
> sealant these
> days?
>
>
> On Dec 26, 2012, at 7:26 PM, Bob Kramer <rkramer3@austin.rr.com>  
> wrote:
>
>> Make sure you measure protrusion after setting a head on top. I set  
>> it
>> all
> up
>> dry and run nuts down all the studs. You may find out that you have
>> less protrusion than you first measured. The steel figure 8's are
>> stamped and
> press
>> down to around .0155". If you still have more than .005" you will  
>> need
>> to
> have
>> custom gaskets made. Mordy Dunst "Gasket Works" makes them.
>>
>> Cleaning the crank without pulling the plugs is a guessing game. Get
>> them
> out
>> before spending money on the crank!
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 26, 2012, at 6:54 PM, marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> A little advice needed from the TR4 masses. On the engine I am
>>> working on
>> the
>>> liner protrusion is .008"/.009". Spec calls out .003"/.005".  This  
>>> is
>>> a HP street engine. Block and head are freshly surfaced, new  
>>> sleeves.
>>> Head
>> gasket
>>> is one of BFE's copper ones. The figure 8 gaskets are .016" steel  
>>> and
> could
>> be
>>> probably be surface ground down to reach the .003"/.005" spec.
>>> Question
> is,
>> do
>>> I need to do this or is the extra protrusion ok?
>>>
>>> Second question, After the crank is ground I am thinking I need to
>>> remove
>> the
>>> cross drilling plugs so that I can clean the internals out  
>>> sufficiently.
> It
>>> looks like this has been attempted sometime in the past as a couple
>>> of the hex's are stripped out. Should I remove/replace these? I'm
>>> thinking they
>> will
>>> be challenging based upon some being stripped already.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
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>>
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