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Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions

To: Jim Gray <toodamnfunky@comcast.net> a=4XwCEAaBuO8A:10 a=kj9zAlcOel0A:10 a=T4P36sT+2UtNexZApgsc6w==:17 a=C_IRinGWAAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=JcvzPq48AAAA:8 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=mkkZP590AAAA:8 a=Iv8eC8cVZDGzFUbHQUcA:9 a=CjuIK1q_8ugA:10 a=J0aUVQLP0FIA:10 a=m3MdUl94G8cA:10 a=si9q_4b84H0A:10 a=LuNFSA0Xe1kA:10 a=4HGvrH9SlZKZCR3M:21 a=M0uRE8ehT2K00nji:21 a=T4P36sT+2UtNexZApgsc6w==:117 reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions
From: John Hasty <jhhasty@gdhs.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 21:35:02 -0500
Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <20121227021544.7495D40552@autox.team.net>
Gee whiz guys. Maybe you should consider sending your cranks down here to
NASCAR country. These guys do it right.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 26, 2012, at 9:03 PM, "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky@comcast.net> wrote:

> Steve & Marty
> The copper head gasket could be the shim type gasket. The old shim steel
> gaskets are now shim copper gaskets and are very soft.
> On the crank plugs I learned early to ask for them to be removed when
> I get the crank back. My ex-crank grinder never sent it back clean.
> Always packed with cuttings & debris.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Steve Yott
> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 6:23 PM
> To: 'marty sukey'; 'FOT'
> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions
>
> What I have found through past experience is that with a solid copper head
> gasket you want the protrusion on the low side of spec and maybe down to
> .002"  The reading you have is way too much for any of the current gaskets.
> If I surface the top of the block, which is frequently needed I correct the
> cylinder protrusion by taking off the required length from the seat of the
> liners.  I made a setup on my lathe to make this a fairly easy process
since
> I do a lot of these builds.
>
> As far as the crankshaft.... Any reputable crank grinder will as part of
the
> process remove the plugs, grind the crank, thoroughly clean and reinstall
> new plugs!  If you find one that does not follow this process find a new
> crankshaft grinder.  I have noticed a number of decent crank grinders
> closing shop these days.  There are many reasons for this which are
> understandable in today's economy and lack of engine rebuilds being
> accomplished.  If you do find a good crank grinder spread the word and help
> these folks out.  With the lack of work available and only being able to
> charge about $250 for a grinding it is very hard to make money when their
> machines cost around $50k or more.
>
> Steve Yott
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of marty sukey
> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 6:54 PM
> To: FOT
> Subject: [Fot] TR4 build questions
>
> A little advice needed from the TR4 masses. On the engine I am working on
> the liner protrusion is .008"/.009". Spec calls out .003"/.005".  This is a
> HP street engine. Block and head are freshly surfaced, new sleeves. Head
> gasket is one of BFE's copper ones. The figure 8 gaskets are .016" steel
and
> could be probably be surface ground down to reach the .003"/.005" spec.
> Question is, do I need to do this or is the extra protrusion ok?
>
> Second question, After the crank is ground I am thinking I need to remove
> the cross drilling plugs so that I can clean the internals out
sufficiently.
> It looks like this has been attempted sometime in the past as a couple of
> the hex's are stripped out. Should I remove/replace these? I'm thinking
they
> will be challenging based upon some being stripped already.
>
> Thanks,
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