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Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions

To: marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 build questions
From: Bob Kramer <rkramer3@austin.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 19:26:35 -0600
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Cc: FOT <fot@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: fot@autox.team.net
References: <BLU168-W23B9998DD50095D2C67723BA380@phx.gbl>
Make sure you measure protrusion after setting a head on top. I set it all up
dry and run nuts down all the studs. You may find out that you have less
protrusion than you first measured. The steel figure 8's are stamped and press
down to around .0155". If you still have more than .005" you will need to have
custom gaskets made. Mordy Dunst "Gasket Works" makes them.

Cleaning the crank without pulling the plugs is a guessing game. Get them out
before spending money on the crank!

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 26, 2012, at 6:54 PM, marty sukey <trmarty@hotmail.com> wrote:

> A little advice needed from the TR4 masses. On the engine I am working on
the
> liner protrusion is .008"/.009". Spec calls out .003"/.005".  This is a HP
> street engine. Block and head are freshly surfaced, new sleeves. Head
gasket
> is one of BFE's copper ones. The figure 8 gaskets are .016" steel and could
be
> probably be surface ground down to reach the .003"/.005" spec. Question is,
do
> I need to do this or is the extra protrusion ok?
>
> Second question, After the crank is ground I am thinking I need to remove
the
> cross drilling plugs so that I can clean the internals out sufficiently. It
> looks like this has been attempted sometime in the past as a couple of the
> hex's are stripped out. Should I remove/replace these? I'm thinking they
will
> be challenging based upon some being stripped already.
>
> Thanks,
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
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