Hi,
You can get the C/R gearsets from either Ted Shcumacher or Ken Gillanders.
Theset consists of a different constant pinion and layshaft gear. There is
also a another main/layshaft gearset, I think it's 2nd gear.
The fitment is fairly straight forward.
You need to modify the mainshaft (or use a late mainshaft) to accomodate
the late-style pilot bearing for the main where it inserts into the
constant pinion gear.
You need to modify the case because the laygear on the constant pinion end
of the layshaft is smaller diameter, therefore you need to cut the bearing
"boss" on the front end of the case to a slightly smaller diameter. You
also need to do fiddle the boss for the rear layshaft thrust bearing to
facilitate fitment. It's easier to do than to describe.
You then just build the tranny as usual.
What you get is a higher 1st and 2nd (lower numerically) so the spacing
between gears is closer... hence close ratio. I think the gears come out
to 2.21, 1.73, 1.33 and 1.0.
If you are running out of RPM's with your current setup, and you are
already using O/D, your diff gear set is too low (e.g. numerically
higher).
If you're running 4.10's you might try 3.90's (they are available from
several sources) or even 3.70. If you runout of RPM's with the 3.70 gears
and O/D, then your motor is making way more power than a usual TR6, and
you could try running the UK/PI spec gear whiich is 3.53, I think. It's
about 10%lower numerically than the US spec 3.70 gears.
Also, what are you running for tires? The current EProd spec cars run
23x9x15, these lower your effective gearing quite a lot. Similarly, the
current DOT tires (like the 225/50-15 Hoosiers) wind up lowering the
effective gearing. So - you might need to look into different tires, too.
The best thing about the C/R gearset - it's really easy to stay in the
power band, and the "jump" from 2nd to 3rd is a tonne less than the stock
gears.
rml
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