For any stuck part with a bit of a shaft showing, I've found making a
special tip for an air chisel works better than anything. I make a "chisel"
and two adapter parts--the chisel is a blunt rod with a hole drilled the
diameter of the part, then I make a long and a short pin that fits the hole.
soak the part with breakfree or the potion of your choice, insert the short
pin and a ball slightly smaller than the pin into the chisel (or you can
stack a bunch of balls) so that some of the part will fit into the tip. Lean
on the hammer and fire away. Some move right away, some take five minutes,
but they all move. Once the chisel is bottomed put the long pin in and knock
the part through.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net
To: jrherrera90@hotmail.com; fot@autox.team.net
Sent: 12/19/2003 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: TR3 Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pin
In a message dated 12/17/03 5:01:09 PM Pacific Standard Time,
jrherrera90@hotmail.com writes:
<< It came out about halfway and stopped, and no amount of beating and
name-calling would budge
it any further. >>
You got a lot further than I did. I recently tried to take a leaf
spring off
of the junker TR-3 in the back yard to replace a ruined spring on the
race
car. Every rear spring front pin that I ever worked with seemed to be
welded
into the frame. This one I whacked off with a fire ax (Not something
that you
want to do). I can install the spring back onto the race car without
moving
that pin, since all the inner fender metal is gone.
If you get the pin out of the frame, I would reinstall it with some
anti-seize. I have also had better luck with PV Blaster trying to free
stuck parts,
than I have had with penetrating oil.
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