The too late advise it to always use a double coat of anti-seize when
installing the pin.
The fact that you have it part way out is good; you can apply more
penetrating oil
(from both ends)and HEAT. After this, you may want to drift the pin
partially back in.
This was the real reason that cars with wire wheels came with a copper hammer.
Time, oil, heat and hammer. Wear eye protection & put a temp plug the
petrol tank vent.
I also find that adult language helps.
I use a deep socket that just fits over the inner frame boss with lubricated
washers
and nut on the thread run into the inside of the pin. This will leave a
small mark on
the frame, but will pull the pin straight, which the p fork might not.
The pin rusts to the ID of the frame hole as well as to the ID of the spring
eye bush.
A new pin and bush are a fine idea.
If you have to, you can release the other spring retainers, and rotate the
assy.
Hardy
In a message dated 12/17/2003 5:00:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
owner-fot-digest@autox.team.net writes:
First I applied Penetrating Oil, then I put fastened a fender washer to the
inner side of the pin with a bolt in the hole provided. I used a "pickle
fork" as a lever with the tines resting on the fender washer and straddling
the pin, and, using the frame as a fulcrum, beat on the other end of the
pickle fork to pry the pin toward the center of the car. It came out about
halfway and stopped, and no amount of beating and name-calling would budge
it any further.
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