I don't think its the fuel pump, I have a replacement for the double ender
SU as was used on the late E-types. I may be wrong but it seems to give
lots of flow and pressure, I have a pressure regulator on it set @ 2.5 psi.
I also readjusted my float levels, as I found the front carb was overflowing
a bit. I set them @ 12.5- 13 mm @ the end of the float to the gasket on the
body top, as the Weber adjustment guide states.
Also, what would you think a good spark plug heat range would be?
Charly
----- Original Message -----
From: "A.J. & C. Wood" <wood@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: Report on mods and performance
> If it's running out of puff in 4th, the fuel pump's probably short of
> capacity. Check the AFR on a rolling road flat-out.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
> To: "T.R. Scratchings" <wob@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk>
> Cc: <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 2:53 PM
> Subject: Re: Report on mods and performance
>
>
> > I think so, Are suggesting that I have to much advance in my
distributor?
> I
> > can change the weights to about 7 or 8 degree advance. I seemed to
notice
> > when I was running the car, it ran out of high end power in 4th gear.
> > Charly
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "T.R. Scratchings" <wob@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk>
> > To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 2:05 AM
> > Subject: Re: Report on mods and performance
> >
> >
> > > Use 14-15 deg idle advance rising to 30-31 deg max at about 3000rpm.
In
> > > other words, 8 deg distributor advance. Weld & dress the nose of the
> rotor
> > > with a file to get the right amount of advance, checked with a cam
> timing
> > > disc & pointer. Does this help?
> > > Jon Wood Plastic Spacecraft
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
> > > To: "Chuck Arnold" <chuck.arnold@oracle.com>; "6pack digest"
> > > <6pack-digest@autox.team.net>; "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 5:04 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Report on mods and performance
> > >
> > >
> > > > I'm trying to figure out where to set the timing on my TR6. My
engine
> > is
> > > > set up similarly, it has a stage 2 head also done by Performance, D9
> cam
> > > set
> > > > precisely with vernier gear, triple Webers, long center branch
header,
> > > > engine has been balanced, pistons (.020" over) matched for height
and
> > > block
> > > > decked .018", rods lightened, flywheel lightened, I also modified
the
> > > thrust
> > > > washers so as to have four instead of two. I'm using stock valve
> train
> > > > except for the solid spacers between rockers. It has a Lucas Sport
> coil
> > > and
> > > > racing wires, I built a distributor that has a 13 degree mechanical
> > > advance
> > > > and use a Pertronix ignitor with out a vacuum advance.
> > > > My question is where should I be with the timing at an idle? or
even
> > > static
> > > > if easier? If it's easier to set the timing at speed I could do
that
> > > also.
> > > > Everything I read says I should be around 32 degrees total advance
at
> > the
> > > > flywheel. This would be 13 distributor degrees X 2 plus 6 degrees.
> > Does
> > > > this sound right?
> > > > Chuck, who did your Dyno work, are the local? Thanks for any input.
> > > > Charly
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Chuck Arnold" <chuck.arnold@oracle.com>
> > > > To: "6pack digest" <6pack-digest@autox.team.net>; "FOT"
> > > <fot@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 6:17 PM
> > > > Subject: Report on mods and performance
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I have a TR6 that I did a lot of work to this year. I got it to
the
> > > > > dyno last week and dialed in these maximum results [though I think
> > there
> > > > > is definitely more there though more tweaking with the Weber
jets].
> > > > >
> > > > > Maximum HP at the wheels: 158 at 5500 and over 150 from 3000-6000
> RPM]
> > > > > Torque 170 at 4800 [pretty peaky, but over 150 from 3000-6500]
> > > > >
> > > > > My modifications include:
> > > > > Head ported and valves radiused, milled to 3.30 [12:1 or so]
> > > > > [PErformance Automotive, Tacoma WA]
> > > > > Heavy duty springs
> > > > > Tubular push rods
> > > > > 1.55:1 roller rockers [the above all from TSI]
> > > > > Triple Weber Carbs and Cannon Manifold from British Parts NW
[ended
> up
> > > > > with 140 mains, 60 idle jets]
> > > > > K&N air filters
> > > > > Electromotive HMX crank fired electronic ignition [no more dizzy,
> and
> > > > > knob tunable advance at 1000, 3000 and 8000 rpm [can roll off or
> > retard
> > > > > linearly from 3000-8000, but doing so with initial set at 16
> degrees,
> > > > > 3000 at 32 degrees and 4 degrees of rolloff lowered HP to 148, so
> set
> > > > > 8000 at 0 change from 3000 -- am using 101 Octane racing fuel].
> > > > > Jet Coated 6:1 header
> > > > > 2.5" single exhaust to a Flowmaster 50 series exhaust and Monza
> > > > > Resonator [Summit] and local muffler shop
> > > > > Oil Cooler
> > > > > Balanced engine
> > > > > .03 over pistons
> > > > > ARP head, rod and crank bolts
> > > > > Flywheel lightened to 22 lbs [wish I'd seen this month's
Grassroots
> > > > > Motorsports first and read Vizzard's article on weight -- 12 lbs
> > > > > flywheel and smaller diameter clutch = same as 320 lbs weight off
> the
> > > > > car]
> > > > > Electric Fan
> > > > > Mallory fuel pump [and battery in the trunk]
> > > > > Oil Cooler
> > > > > Tilton .75 dual master cylinders [with necessary balance bar
welded
> to
> > > > > the brake pedal] -- think these are too large as pedal pressure is
> > high
> > > > > Herman Van Den Akker Toyota 5 speed with annular throwout bearing
> > > > > Goodparts 300Z viscous limited slip kit [locally sourced 4.08:1
> diff]
> > > > > --gearing change made for 112 mph at 6500 on the dyno so will need
> > that
> > > > > 5th gear at Pacific Raceways
> > > > >
> > > > > I use 16x7 Panasports with 205x50 Kuhmo Eksta V700's. Have tube
> > shocks
> > > > > in rear, a rear anti-roll bar and stiffer front anti-roll.
Stiffest
> > > > > front shocks I could buy and fairly stiff rear springs, Adjustable
> > SPAX
> > > > > up front, KYB's in the rear. Nylatron bushings. Toyota 4 Pot
> brakes
> > to
> > > > > vented rotors and Carbotech Panther Plus pads in front [bought the
> Kit
> > > > > on EBAy from the Canadian], 7/8" rear brake cylinders to Carbotech
> > > > > Kealated pads in the rear with Nissan 280Z aluminum finned drums.
I
> > > > > have lowered the spring perch in front about a quarter of an inch.
> > > > > Frame is about 2.5" off ground in front.
> > > > >
> > > > > I have aluminum front hubs on order.
> > > > > Am investigating going to Nissan stub axles in the rear [anyone
have
> > any
> > > > > TR experience with this -- how to fasten the bearing carrier to
the
> > > > > trailing arm is the issue.
> > > > >
> > > > > First time on a track last weekend was good and bad. Good because
> the
> > > > > car ran really well [and sounds awesome], bad because my shifter
> > decided
> > > > > to depart from the housing leaving me only 3rd gear during my
second
> > > > > session. Have new parts to fix the problem -- thank you Edward
Hamer
> > for
> > > > > the spring retainer and Herman for the non obtanium shifter cap.
> > > > >
> > > > > Car is very neutral, though I am pretty good at going too fast in
> some
> > > > > turns, and quite bad at catching it, so I did manage one spin [at
> > least
> > > > > I now can catch those in time to keep from killing]. Hard to tell
> how
> > > > > much faster it and I am. Know my times at Pacific last year were
> > about
> > > > > 2 minutes flat. Am going there next weekend, so we will see what
we
> > can
> > > > > do not [presuming I learn to keep it on the road at 5b -- spun
twice
> > > > > there last year].
> > > > >
> > > > > Hope to get enough lap times/driving experience/training this year
> to
> > > > > build a legal, competitive 6 for SOVERN vintage racing next year.
> [by
> > > > > by tranny, diff and HMX], hello A type overdrive, electronic
> > distributor
> > > > > and Salisbury 4:11 expensive rear end, and of course the 16" rims
> > [will
> > > > > keep them all in this car and build another I think]
> > > > >
> > > > > Chuck
> > > > >
> > > > > [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which
had
> a
> > > > name of chuck.arnold.vcf]
> > > >
> > > > [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a
> > name
> > > of apr18#03.jpg]
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