I think so, Are suggesting that I have to much advance in my distributor? I
can change the weights to about 7 or 8 degree advance. I seemed to notice
when I was running the car, it ran out of high end power in 4th gear.
Charly
----- Original Message -----
From: "T.R. Scratchings" <wob@dandrade.freeserve.co.uk>
To: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 2:05 AM
Subject: Re: Report on mods and performance
> Use 14-15 deg idle advance rising to 30-31 deg max at about 3000rpm. In
> other words, 8 deg distributor advance. Weld & dress the nose of the rotor
> with a file to get the right amount of advance, checked with a cam timing
> disc & pointer. Does this help?
> Jon Wood Plastic Spacecraft
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charly Mitchel" <charly@mitchelplumbing.com>
> To: "Chuck Arnold" <chuck.arnold@oracle.com>; "6pack digest"
> <6pack-digest@autox.team.net>; "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 5:04 AM
> Subject: Re: Report on mods and performance
>
>
> > I'm trying to figure out where to set the timing on my TR6. My engine
is
> > set up similarly, it has a stage 2 head also done by Performance, D9 cam
> set
> > precisely with vernier gear, triple Webers, long center branch header,
> > engine has been balanced, pistons (.020" over) matched for height and
> block
> > decked .018", rods lightened, flywheel lightened, I also modified the
> thrust
> > washers so as to have four instead of two. I'm using stock valve train
> > except for the solid spacers between rockers. It has a Lucas Sport coil
> and
> > racing wires, I built a distributor that has a 13 degree mechanical
> advance
> > and use a Pertronix ignitor with out a vacuum advance.
> > My question is where should I be with the timing at an idle? or even
> static
> > if easier? If it's easier to set the timing at speed I could do that
> also.
> > Everything I read says I should be around 32 degrees total advance at
the
> > flywheel. This would be 13 distributor degrees X 2 plus 6 degrees.
Does
> > this sound right?
> > Chuck, who did your Dyno work, are the local? Thanks for any input.
> > Charly
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Chuck Arnold" <chuck.arnold@oracle.com>
> > To: "6pack digest" <6pack-digest@autox.team.net>; "FOT"
> <fot@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 6:17 PM
> > Subject: Report on mods and performance
> >
> >
> > > I have a TR6 that I did a lot of work to this year. I got it to the
> > > dyno last week and dialed in these maximum results [though I think
there
> > > is definitely more there though more tweaking with the Weber jets].
> > >
> > > Maximum HP at the wheels: 158 at 5500 and over 150 from 3000-6000 RPM]
> > > Torque 170 at 4800 [pretty peaky, but over 150 from 3000-6500]
> > >
> > > My modifications include:
> > > Head ported and valves radiused, milled to 3.30 [12:1 or so]
> > > [PErformance Automotive, Tacoma WA]
> > > Heavy duty springs
> > > Tubular push rods
> > > 1.55:1 roller rockers [the above all from TSI]
> > > Triple Weber Carbs and Cannon Manifold from British Parts NW [ended up
> > > with 140 mains, 60 idle jets]
> > > K&N air filters
> > > Electromotive HMX crank fired electronic ignition [no more dizzy, and
> > > knob tunable advance at 1000, 3000 and 8000 rpm [can roll off or
retard
> > > linearly from 3000-8000, but doing so with initial set at 16 degrees,
> > > 3000 at 32 degrees and 4 degrees of rolloff lowered HP to 148, so set
> > > 8000 at 0 change from 3000 -- am using 101 Octane racing fuel].
> > > Jet Coated 6:1 header
> > > 2.5" single exhaust to a Flowmaster 50 series exhaust and Monza
> > > Resonator [Summit] and local muffler shop
> > > Oil Cooler
> > > Balanced engine
> > > .03 over pistons
> > > ARP head, rod and crank bolts
> > > Flywheel lightened to 22 lbs [wish I'd seen this month's Grassroots
> > > Motorsports first and read Vizzard's article on weight -- 12 lbs
> > > flywheel and smaller diameter clutch = same as 320 lbs weight off the
> > > car]
> > > Electric Fan
> > > Mallory fuel pump [and battery in the trunk]
> > > Oil Cooler
> > > Tilton .75 dual master cylinders [with necessary balance bar welded to
> > > the brake pedal] -- think these are too large as pedal pressure is
high
> > > Herman Van Den Akker Toyota 5 speed with annular throwout bearing
> > > Goodparts 300Z viscous limited slip kit [locally sourced 4.08:1 diff]
> > > --gearing change made for 112 mph at 6500 on the dyno so will need
that
> > > 5th gear at Pacific Raceways
> > >
> > > I use 16x7 Panasports with 205x50 Kuhmo Eksta V700's. Have tube
shocks
> > > in rear, a rear anti-roll bar and stiffer front anti-roll. Stiffest
> > > front shocks I could buy and fairly stiff rear springs, Adjustable
SPAX
> > > up front, KYB's in the rear. Nylatron bushings. Toyota 4 Pot brakes
to
> > > vented rotors and Carbotech Panther Plus pads in front [bought the Kit
> > > on EBAy from the Canadian], 7/8" rear brake cylinders to Carbotech
> > > Kealated pads in the rear with Nissan 280Z aluminum finned drums. I
> > > have lowered the spring perch in front about a quarter of an inch.
> > > Frame is about 2.5" off ground in front.
> > >
> > > I have aluminum front hubs on order.
> > > Am investigating going to Nissan stub axles in the rear [anyone have
any
> > > TR experience with this -- how to fasten the bearing carrier to the
> > > trailing arm is the issue.
> > >
> > > First time on a track last weekend was good and bad. Good because the
> > > car ran really well [and sounds awesome], bad because my shifter
decided
> > > to depart from the housing leaving me only 3rd gear during my second
> > > session. Have new parts to fix the problem -- thank you Edward Hamer
for
> > > the spring retainer and Herman for the non obtanium shifter cap.
> > >
> > > Car is very neutral, though I am pretty good at going too fast in some
> > > turns, and quite bad at catching it, so I did manage one spin [at
least
> > > I now can catch those in time to keep from killing]. Hard to tell how
> > > much faster it and I am. Know my times at Pacific last year were
about
> > > 2 minutes flat. Am going there next weekend, so we will see what we
can
> > > do not [presuming I learn to keep it on the road at 5b -- spun twice
> > > there last year].
> > >
> > > Hope to get enough lap times/driving experience/training this year to
> > > build a legal, competitive 6 for SOVERN vintage racing next year. [by
> > > by tranny, diff and HMX], hello A type overdrive, electronic
distributor
> > > and Salisbury 4:11 expensive rear end, and of course the 16" rims
[will
> > > keep them all in this car and build another I think]
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > >
> > > [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a
> > name of chuck.arnold.vcf]
> >
> > [demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a
name
> of apr18#03.jpg]
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