I'm trying to figure out where to set the timing on my TR6. My engine is
set up similarly, it has a stage 2 head also done by Performance, D9 cam set
precisely with vernier gear, triple Webers, long center branch header,
engine has been balanced, pistons (.020" over) matched for height and block
decked .018", rods lightened, flywheel lightened, I also modified the thrust
washers so as to have four instead of two. I'm using stock valve train
except for the solid spacers between rockers. It has a Lucas Sport coil and
racing wires, I built a distributor that has a 13 degree mechanical advance
and use a Pertronix ignitor with out a vacuum advance.
My question is where should I be with the timing at an idle? or even static
if easier? If it's easier to set the timing at speed I could do that also.
Everything I read says I should be around 32 degrees total advance at the
flywheel. This would be 13 distributor degrees X 2 plus 6 degrees. Does
this sound right?
Chuck, who did your Dyno work, are the local? Thanks for any input.
Charly
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Arnold" <chuck.arnold@oracle.com>
To: "6pack digest" <6pack-digest@autox.team.net>; "FOT" <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 6:17 PM
Subject: Report on mods and performance
> I have a TR6 that I did a lot of work to this year. I got it to the
> dyno last week and dialed in these maximum results [though I think there
> is definitely more there though more tweaking with the Weber jets].
>
> Maximum HP at the wheels: 158 at 5500 and over 150 from 3000-6000 RPM]
> Torque 170 at 4800 [pretty peaky, but over 150 from 3000-6500]
>
> My modifications include:
> Head ported and valves radiused, milled to 3.30 [12:1 or so]
> [PErformance Automotive, Tacoma WA]
> Heavy duty springs
> Tubular push rods
> 1.55:1 roller rockers [the above all from TSI]
> Triple Weber Carbs and Cannon Manifold from British Parts NW [ended up
> with 140 mains, 60 idle jets]
> K&N air filters
> Electromotive HMX crank fired electronic ignition [no more dizzy, and
> knob tunable advance at 1000, 3000 and 8000 rpm [can roll off or retard
> linearly from 3000-8000, but doing so with initial set at 16 degrees,
> 3000 at 32 degrees and 4 degrees of rolloff lowered HP to 148, so set
> 8000 at 0 change from 3000 -- am using 101 Octane racing fuel].
> Jet Coated 6:1 header
> 2.5" single exhaust to a Flowmaster 50 series exhaust and Monza
> Resonator [Summit] and local muffler shop
> Oil Cooler
> Balanced engine
> .03 over pistons
> ARP head, rod and crank bolts
> Flywheel lightened to 22 lbs [wish I'd seen this month's Grassroots
> Motorsports first and read Vizzard's article on weight -- 12 lbs
> flywheel and smaller diameter clutch = same as 320 lbs weight off the
> car]
> Electric Fan
> Mallory fuel pump [and battery in the trunk]
> Oil Cooler
> Tilton .75 dual master cylinders [with necessary balance bar welded to
> the brake pedal] -- think these are too large as pedal pressure is high
> Herman Van Den Akker Toyota 5 speed with annular throwout bearing
> Goodparts 300Z viscous limited slip kit [locally sourced 4.08:1 diff]
> --gearing change made for 112 mph at 6500 on the dyno so will need that
> 5th gear at Pacific Raceways
>
> I use 16x7 Panasports with 205x50 Kuhmo Eksta V700's. Have tube shocks
> in rear, a rear anti-roll bar and stiffer front anti-roll. Stiffest
> front shocks I could buy and fairly stiff rear springs, Adjustable SPAX
> up front, KYB's in the rear. Nylatron bushings. Toyota 4 Pot brakes to
> vented rotors and Carbotech Panther Plus pads in front [bought the Kit
> on EBAy from the Canadian], 7/8" rear brake cylinders to Carbotech
> Kealated pads in the rear with Nissan 280Z aluminum finned drums. I
> have lowered the spring perch in front about a quarter of an inch.
> Frame is about 2.5" off ground in front.
>
> I have aluminum front hubs on order.
> Am investigating going to Nissan stub axles in the rear [anyone have any
> TR experience with this -- how to fasten the bearing carrier to the
> trailing arm is the issue.
>
> First time on a track last weekend was good and bad. Good because the
> car ran really well [and sounds awesome], bad because my shifter decided
> to depart from the housing leaving me only 3rd gear during my second
> session. Have new parts to fix the problem -- thank you Edward Hamer for
> the spring retainer and Herman for the non obtanium shifter cap.
>
> Car is very neutral, though I am pretty good at going too fast in some
> turns, and quite bad at catching it, so I did manage one spin [at least
> I now can catch those in time to keep from killing]. Hard to tell how
> much faster it and I am. Know my times at Pacific last year were about
> 2 minutes flat. Am going there next weekend, so we will see what we can
> do not [presuming I learn to keep it on the road at 5b -- spun twice
> there last year].
>
> Hope to get enough lap times/driving experience/training this year to
> build a legal, competitive 6 for SOVERN vintage racing next year. [by
> by tranny, diff and HMX], hello A type overdrive, electronic distributor
> and Salisbury 4:11 expensive rear end, and of course the 16" rims [will
> keep them all in this car and build another I think]
>
> Chuck
>
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