Good reply and makes sense....I file this away in my bank of limited
knowledge
My current block shows evidence of "decking", but I suspect it was done
at the factory in the middle of the machining operations. There is some
brazing to repair a break at the push rod side wall & deck of the block,
but the repair may have occurred before the final machining operation.
Thank you...it has been something I have been wondering about.
BTW, I have a couple extra blocks, if someone is desperate enuf for me
to crate ship a block to them.
Regards,
Joe
> ----------
> From: R. John Lye[SMTP:rjl6n@virginia.edu]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 1997 5:39 AM
> To: Alexander Joseph H; 'Friends of Triumph'
> Subject: Re: Block/Liner Question
>
> At 09:48 AM 10/28/97 -0600, Alexander Joseph H wrote:
> >If I were to take a stock TR4 block and stock set of liners and
> wished
> >to "freshen" the surface of the deck, what is the procedure?
> Pitfalls?
>
> Ken Gillanders chastised me thoroughly for doing this to the block
> that's currently in my car; unfortunately, the top surface was so
> badly scored that I had no real choice. If you can avoid decking
> the block, don't.
>
> >Never done this before and dont want to find out things the hard way
> IF
> >I do a skim cut.
>
> The problem is that with the wet liner block, you'll have to measure
> the "protrusion" of each liner, then have a machinist chuck them in a
> lathe and remove a few thousands to get the required protrusion. Of
> course, if whoever decks the block doesn't get it exactly square,
> you'll
> have to mark the liners for both position (1,2,3 or 4) and orientation
> within the block, etc. Also, if you're running a high compression
> motor, you may run into valve to piston interference or your rods
> may be too long, you'll have to compensate with shorter pushrods, etc.
> So, its best not to skim it unless absolutely necessary.
>
> John Lye
> rjl6n@Virginia.edu
>
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