I solved this problem with one rather radical solution. I solid mounted
my engine in the front. It makes the front end a little stiffer (I
theorize), lowers the engine about an inch and eliminates transmission
mount breakage. I fabricated the mount from half inch steel tubes, side
by side to replace the rubber.
I've had no problem with the mounts in the two years since I made 'em.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alexander Joseph H [SMTP:AlexanderJosephH@Waterloo.deere.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 04, 1997 8:50 AM
> To: 'fot@autox.team.net'; 'Malaboge@aol.com'
> Subject: RE: TRans mount ramblings...
>
> The faster we went the faster rear mount would go...especially with
> the
> extra weight of the overdrive. It gave some warning with the u joint
> rubbing against tunnel. A bit hair raising at the Kink at Road
> America,
> tho.
>
> After consultation with Bob Wismer we did the following:
>
> 1. Fabricated two "L" shaped tabs and bolted them on either side of
> transmission mount for lateral support.
>
> 2. Filled the gap between the upper & lower mounting plates with
> rubber
> for added vertical support.
>
> No more problems encountered since then.
>
> >----------
> >From: Malaboge@aol.com[SMTP:Malaboge@aol.com]
> >Sent: Friday, August 01, 1997 11:34 AM
> >To: fot@autox.team.net
> >Subject: TRans mount ramblings...
> >
> >
> >Fellow TR Herders-
> >
> >Well, it's story time here, so grab a beverage of your choice, or hit
> the
> >delete key now.
> >
> >The other week I was at a car show and was talkin to a fellow whose
> >not-so-irresistable force met with a truly immovable object, and he
> was
> >bemoaning the fact that of all the parts that he modified, he felt
> the worst
> >about his lovingly hand-crafted cold air box and his headers. Seems
> the
> >impact broke the rear trans mount and allowed the whole magilla to
> move over
> >enough to wreak havoc on the forementioned pride and joy.
> >
> >Well having been in that situation a time or two myself, and having
> an
> >OPINION on just about eveything (notice I didn't say good, or
> right...), I
> >told him mine and thought perhaps this isn't as much common knowlege
> as I
> >thought, so I'm posting it on the off chance that it may help
> somebody,
> >somewhere.
> >
> >This mod will only work on the TR2-3-4-250-and early 6 cars.
> >Basically what you want to do is to use one long bolt down thru the
> left
> >trans to trans mount hole, all the way thru the crossmember. Remove
> the
> >existing short bolt, and drill down thru the hole so that you now
> have
> >another hole, in the crossmember, directly aligned below the original
> hole.
> >Open this new hole up a little larger than the bolt size, as you want
> the
> >bolt to be able to move around in the hole (that's why there's a
> rubber mount
> >there in the first place). Now you'll need to find a good graded bolt
> >(threaded all the way) about 5" or so (it will go thru the trans,
> the mount,
> >and the crossmember). In addition you will need a couple; regular
> nuts, one
> >nyloc nut, and a couple large washers. For the washers, try to find
> some
> >serious thickness types, not thin body washers. I used to use the
> washers
> >from the tension/compression rods on early BMW's as they have a
> generous
> >coating of rubber on one side of the washer and on this application
> they
> >won't make any noise. Put the bolt thru the trans as normal and put a
> nut on
> >to tighten it to the mount. Now put two more nuts on the bolt, then a
> washer.
> >Drop the bolt thru the new hole in the crossmember, add the other
> washer and
> >the nyloc nut. Now tighten the trans to the mount as normal, turn the
> other
> >nuts down until they almost contact the washer and lock them in
> place. Now
> >tighten the nyloc nut until it is close enough to the crossmember so
> as to
> >leave the lower washer loose.
> >
> >Now you have completed the mod. DO NOT test this modification, take
> my word
> >for it, it will stop the trans from moving unless you use sufficient
> >irresistable force to actually break the trans mount and the mounting
> ear
> >off, in which case, air box deformation will be the least of your
> problems.
> ><g>
> >
> >Ole shifty...
> >Nick in Nor Cal
> >
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