The faster we went the faster rear mount would go...especially with the
extra weight of the overdrive. It gave some warning with the u joint
rubbing against tunnel. A bit hair raising at the Kink at Road America,
tho.
After consultation with Bob Wismer we did the following:
1. Fabricated two "L" shaped tabs and bolted them on either side of
transmission mount for lateral support.
2. Filled the gap between the upper & lower mounting plates with rubber
for added vertical support.
No more problems encountered since then.
>----------
>From: Malaboge@aol.com[SMTP:Malaboge@aol.com]
>Sent: Friday, August 01, 1997 11:34 AM
>To: fot@autox.team.net
>Subject: TRans mount ramblings...
>
>
>Fellow TR Herders-
>
>Well, it's story time here, so grab a beverage of your choice, or hit the
>delete key now.
>
>The other week I was at a car show and was talkin to a fellow whose
>not-so-irresistable force met with a truly immovable object, and he was
>bemoaning the fact that of all the parts that he modified, he felt the worst
>about his lovingly hand-crafted cold air box and his headers. Seems the
>impact broke the rear trans mount and allowed the whole magilla to move over
>enough to wreak havoc on the forementioned pride and joy.
>
>Well having been in that situation a time or two myself, and having an
>OPINION on just about eveything (notice I didn't say good, or right...), I
>told him mine and thought perhaps this isn't as much common knowlege as I
>thought, so I'm posting it on the off chance that it may help somebody,
>somewhere.
>
>This mod will only work on the TR2-3-4-250-and early 6 cars.
>Basically what you want to do is to use one long bolt down thru the left
>trans to trans mount hole, all the way thru the crossmember. Remove the
>existing short bolt, and drill down thru the hole so that you now have
>another hole, in the crossmember, directly aligned below the original hole.
>Open this new hole up a little larger than the bolt size, as you want the
>bolt to be able to move around in the hole (that's why there's a rubber mount
>there in the first place). Now you'll need to find a good graded bolt
>(threaded all the way) about 5" or so (it will go thru the trans, the mount,
>and the crossmember). In addition you will need a couple; regular nuts, one
>nyloc nut, and a couple large washers. For the washers, try to find some
>serious thickness types, not thin body washers. I used to use the washers
>from the tension/compression rods on early BMW's as they have a generous
>coating of rubber on one side of the washer and on this application they
>won't make any noise. Put the bolt thru the trans as normal and put a nut on
>to tighten it to the mount. Now put two more nuts on the bolt, then a washer.
>Drop the bolt thru the new hole in the crossmember, add the other washer and
>the nyloc nut. Now tighten the trans to the mount as normal, turn the other
>nuts down until they almost contact the washer and lock them in place. Now
>tighten the nyloc nut until it is close enough to the crossmember so as to
>leave the lower washer loose.
>
>Now you have completed the mod. DO NOT test this modification, take my word
>for it, it will stop the trans from moving unless you use sufficient
>irresistable force to actually break the trans mount and the mounting ear
>off, in which case, air box deformation will be the least of your problems.
><g>
>
>Ole shifty...
>Nick in Nor Cal
>
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