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<div style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: rgb(0, 0, 0); FONT-SIZE: 12px"><di=
v> My 1964 SPL310 (1500) has run hot since day one. It has a fai=
rly pristine 3-row radiator core. I live in the Dallas Texas, area, a=
nd it gets pretty hot around here. The stock idiot gauge steadi=
ly pegs on the highway at about 65 mph. I put an after market gauge i=
n which showed the temperature close to 290 deg. Slowing down to 55 M=
PH brings the temperature down but it still runs at 275deg. After run=
ning around town and turning the motor off, it often blows most of the cool=
ant from the upper tank through the overflow tube. It often vapor loc=
ks after it gets turned off. I took my radiator to the local old scho=
ol radiator guru today. He did a flow test and it was fine. However, =
he noticed that my cap was pretty week. He thinks my stock cap may on=
ly be a 3-4lb cap and suggested that I purchase a 12 lb cap. . =
He's thinking that that my roadster may be continuously be losing coolant w=
hen it gets pressurised and allows air into the system, which makes the car=
run even hotter. A tighter cap would hold coolant better and help th=
e cooling. The temperature would stay lower, even under more pressure=
. The stock radiator caps are not exactly growing on trees, so getting a 12=
lb cap to give it a try may not be obtainable. The radiator shop say=
s they can put a new cap assembly o the unit, but I hate doing that before =
I even know if it will solve my issue. Does anyone know a source for =
a 12lb cap that will fit a 1500 radiator? Feedback from those in the =
know would be appreciated.</div><div><br /></div><div>.<span style=3D"font-=
family: Arial; font-size: 12px;">Charlie Hubbard</span></div><span><div sty=
le=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: rgb(0, 0, 0); FONT-SIZE: 12px">Flower Moun=
d, TX<br />cehubbard@verizon.net</div></span></div>
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