Pete,
If all you are doing is wiring, I recommend trying this way: Remove the
seats (four nuts/FW and LW on each.) Should have thick, like 3/16-inches,
flat washers under the floor pan. I believe these were fitted to keep the
seats from pulling through the floor in a collision. On the driver's side,
pull the steering wheel -- easy on the '66. Now you have a flat surface on
which to lie, and getting at most stuff under the dash is fairly
straight-forward. I pulled all my gauges and checked wiring when I
refinished the '66 in 1993 this way. I have also spent a lot of time
contorted between the steering wheel and the seat bottom cushion, so I pull
things when I know I'm going to be under there a while.
If that doesn't work for you, you can always do more radical surgery.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Peters" <ppeters914@comcast.net>
To: "Datsun Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 1:09 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] time estimate for removing windshield frame, dash pad
and dash (early flat dash)
> Now I see why folks don't like to search the mailing list; you have to
> search each individual month (tedious), and the archives only go back to
> 2007. Anyways.....
>
> 1966 1600
>
> Trying to confirm whether engine is actually overheating or if gauge is
> not working properly. I suspect the latter, and need to correct the
> "creative" PO wiring on water temp and gas gauges. Reaching up under and
> behind the dash a bit frustrating, so thinking I need to bite the bullet
> and remove the windshield frame (4 bolts & 2 nuts, right?), dash pad (4
> nuts?), and dash (???).
>
> What's a reasonable time to accomplish this? Any gotchas?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Pete
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