Gary,
The points brought up by Graeme, John and Keith are all definitely things to
check. In particular, make sure the pedal push rod has just a touch of free
play with the pedal pulled out against the stop. A little while back I
helped out another lister, who was experiencing the same issue, and found it
to be the thickness of the pushrod stop ring/washer holding the pushrod just
a touch too far inside the cylinder, blocking the bleed-back port, and
holding the caliper pistons out.
Without the pedal connected, the pushrod should be free to flop around a
little - it should be the stop screw in the bottom of the cylinder that the
piston stops against.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Tew" <garytew@cox.net>
To: "datsun list datsun" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:49 PM
Subject: [Roadsters] volvo brake conversion
> I've been driving the Roadster, trying to dial in the fuel tables on the
> EFI. There have been a few issues but that's to be expected on a
> project like this. One I'm trying to resolve is the front brakes.
> The Volvo calipers are heating up and locking the brakes after a short
> (15min or so) drive. After the brakes cool, the wheels turn freely
> again but when they are hot, I can't push the car. Any ideas on this.
> I'm using Dean's dual master cylinder setup. I've thought about buying
> new pads and seeing if I can get them machined down slightly to
> compensate for the expansion. Don't know if that's possible yet.
> Anyone experienced this trouble before?
>
> Gary Tew
> Peoria, AZ
> 67 1600 VG30E
> www.members.cox.net/garytew
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