Mike,
I too have yet to than Gary publicly, but he has been very good and helpful to
me
as well. I plan to take him up on an electronic dizzy sometime next summer.
There are special wrenches made for the nuts on tubing. They grab 5 of the 6
sides of the nut and greatly reduce the chance of damaging the nut when you run
into one that is really tight, which in my experience is fairly common. Good
tubing wrenches have heavier jaws so they don't expand when you apply pressure
to
the tubing nut. If there isn't a lot of metal around the nut, don't buy the
wrench. I recently broke a cheap, thin, tubing wrench that came from somewhere,
and then used a good tubing wrench to remove the nut without any problem. I
never attempt to remove a tubing connection without using one of these wrenches
first. It has been a long time since I rounded a nut off using a standard
wrench
and ended up removing and re-installing it with a pair of grip locks.
Remember, these are SAE nuts and threads, NOT metric.
Your local auto supply has a supply of tubing that is straight, and has the
fittings already attached. I recently made new rear brake lines from the dual
brake pressure sensor on the right side of the firewall to the rear wheels using
these pre-made metal brake hoses. I used a small tubing bender, but found that
in some cases I had to modify the radius a bit to make things clear and fit
properly.
You can also purchase the connectors and the metal brake line and make your own
hoses. This method may offer you routing options that the pre-made hoses cannot
use. You have to have a flaring tool, often strongly recommended here to be a
double flare (?) tool rather than a single. I did not find a flaring tool at my
local parts house, which is one reason I used the pre-flared and assembled metal
lines. In the end the whole job was much easier than I envisioned when I first
accepted the need to replace these lines.
Be careful. There are two types of flaring available. I got lucky and got the
correct version, but look at what you have and make sure you get the correct SAE
nut and flare.
Tom
69 2000
Portland, Oregon
Mike wrote:
> hi all,
>
> I have been pulling my brakes on the front off so I can replace the
> cylinder bodies. they are pitted and leaking. I had a real hard time getting
> the driver side front hose off where it connects to the metal line. it took a
> large crescent and open end wrench pushing against each other to get it to
> budge. I tried to threads the new hose on and it wont go. I think is cross
> threaded even though I cant really tell. anyhow I need to replace the metal
> line. it runs from the front around the back of the engine compartment and
> connects to what appears to be a valve (proportioning valve maybe?) are these
> hard to make or should I just buy another one? tips, tricks, etc,
> appreciated.
> I also want to give Kudos' to Gary for letting me know about a problem
> with my distributor. he contacted me, informed me of the problem, and
> requested I send it back for adjustment at no charge (even covered the
> shipping). to be honest it seemed fine to me! thx again Gary!
>
> thx again for all the great help and info!
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