Switches for the early cars are cheap - a lot cheaper than trying to fix
one. I have a price of about $6.58 or so for one from a forklift dealer.
Can't beat that!!!!
The advice is good but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and cough
up some money. On that subject some people seem stunned by prices of some
parts especially the 2L timing components but others like heater cores
aren't to far out of line with what modern car parts cost. Some newer
distributors, of any type, can run over $1K and the prices for alternators
and starter motors can be very pricey too. We in the Roadster community
don't really have it too bad but we can't expect to pay 1970 prices for our
parts.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick J. Horne" <horne@cs.utexas.edu>
To: "Datsun_Sports" <Datsun_Sports@hotmail.com>
Cc: "Datsun Forum" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2002 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: your mail
> Mike,
>
> As I recall the back on those switches just snap on, but even if they are
> glued on they can be opened up with a sharp knife. The way I look at it,
> the switch is bad and needs to be replaced, so you can't make it any
> worse!
>
> Mark the back and side of the switch with a magic marker so you will get
> it back to gether later. Also, mark the case and actuator that connects to
> the ignition lock. (this is a column mounted switch, isn't it?)
>
> Be careful when opening the switch, there may be small coil springs in it
> that can get lost easily. Work over a table in good light. I generally use
> a cookie sheet with raised sides when doing this kind of work so the parts
> don't roll off the work surface and go on vacation.
>
> Carefully open the switch and try to see where all the pieces are. You
> should find that the back cover of the switch (where the connections are)
> has metal buttons on the inside that are connected to the connections on
> the outside. Check that the connections are tight and the connections
> through the back cover are not all corroded.
>
> The rotating part of the switch should be either a series of coil springs,
> or a flat spring with a formed contact plat on it that rukbs against the
> buttons on the back cover.
>
> All the contact areas will show rubbing where they contacted the other
> parts of the switch. These areas need to be not burned. I use a typewriter
> eraser to go over the areas to clean off any burning and oxidation.
>
> The switch needs lubrication and something to help suppress oxidation. Go
> to a commercial electrical contractor on a site and see if you can beg
> some of the grease that they use on large outdoor lugs. It is usually grey
> and works much better than the silicone grease that you get at Radio
> Shack. (I wouldn't go to an electrical supply house for this, they will
> have it in larger quantities than you will ever use!) The Radio Shack is
> OK, but the commercial stuff works much better.
>
> Put the switch back together and give it a try. If it works, plan on
> getting yourself a spare for the future. If it doesn't, well, it's time to
> buy the new switch now.
>
> All this cleaning will cost you is an hour or so and a trip to a local
> construction project.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Peace,
> Pat
>
> - Support Habitat for Humanity, A "hand up", not a "hand out" -
>
> Pat Horne, Network Manager, Shop Supervisor, Future planner
> CS Dept, University of Texas, Austin, Tx. 78712 USA
> voice (512)471-9730, fax (512)471-8885, horne@cs.utexas.edu
>
> On Wed, 26 Jun 2002, Datsun_Sports wrote:
>
> > hi,
> >
> > is the ignition switch repairable for the early 67 roadster. the back
seems
> > loose. I want take it apart to repair it if possible,
> >
> > thx,
> >
> > mike
> >
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