Chris,
Brian commented on the light coating of oil on the
bolt threads and under the head of the bolt. That
is something I do.
BOLTS: threads should be nice a clean. A bench
mounted wire wheel works great, but a wire brush
can be used just fine, too. Either way wear safety
glasses.
BOLT HOLES: I like "chasing" the threads to remove
any trash from the threads, and to clean out the
bottom of the bolt hole.
Thankfully the headbolt threads are a common USA
size of 7/16" x 14 tpi. This is true of early SAE
1600 and later "metric" 1600/2000 engines.
I'll take an old bolt, of correct size, and cut
some perpendicular slots into with a small jewelers
file. As the bolt is threaded into the hole, it will
clean the bolt hole. Also I will file an edge on
the bottom of the bolt to help scrap up the bottom
of the bolt hole in the block.
I also like using a 60 degree chamfer to remove the
top of the bolt hole on the block. Just a little
to clean it up. That is a special tool, but a 5/8"
drill bit turned by HAND will do the same thing.
Did you see those two little alignment rings that
fit into a couple of bolt holes? Replace them into
the block
TRIAL FIT: NO HEADGASKET YET.
Head is placed on the block.
I'll do a TRIAL fit of the head bolts with the
washers under them. I do this, and tighten
by finger pressure only, to make sure the bolts
don't bottom in the bolt holes.
Check every bolt, and make sure you know where the
"long bolt" is for the 1600 engine (there is an
engine lift bracket that goes under the head of the
longest bolt).
Lift the head back off (making sure to set it on
down its side).
On the headgaskets, I like a light coat of "Copper
Coat" on both sides of the head gasket. Exception
is the later U20 headgaskets that have the graphite
coating on them (they come from the Dealer and are
fantastic head gaskets as I don't have any oil leaks
when using them, but I install them as I get them).
From there the rest of the manual should be fine.
Cheers,
Tom Walter
Austin, TX
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