----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick J. Horne <horne@cs.utexas.edu>
snip
>The sender is about the only thing youcan't check with a test light and a
little
>thought, without starting the engine and warming it up.
Hi Pat, Dan, Roadster people:
Checking the sending unit is actually really easy, but you have to be able to
get
the sender off the car and into a pot of boiling water. I don't have any sort
of
specification, but a cold sender should have very high resistance, and a hot one
should be very low... I had some L series senders I was fighting with, and a
hot/
cold resistance check revealed one was open inside - infinite resistance at all
times.
Dan - I wouldn't sweat the gauge not moving off of dead when you turn the key
on. It might be as simple as the previous sender having a lower cold resistance
than the new one. If the gauge pegs to hot when you ground the sender wire, I'd
assume everything is shipshape. Fill the car with water (eventually;-) and
warm it up. If you still get no love, then you can check the sender itself,
monkey around with grounding, etc.
While I'm at it - as a fellow dead-temp-gauge 2000 owner, I read with interest
the information re: staple in the original gasket. Is that something one could
do with a non-stapled gasket? Or is there something else to it? And why
do the thermostat housing mounting bolts fail to ground the sender effectively?
Hmm... wait - it's a sammich type thang, huh? IOW, head/gasket/sender housing/
gasket/water neck, huh? Sheesh, I'm so paranoid, I'm scared to even LOOK at
the 'stat assembly;-)
FWIW,
Kyle
|