Ewwwwww...
If you haven't put the pistons in, the crank should turn easily. With
the pistons, it should be harder to turn, but it should be do-able by
hand- perhaps pushing and pulling on the counterweights.
If it won't spin, and it plastigauges out OK, something's out of
alignment. Most likely is a bent crank, altho a cracked block will do
it, too, if the crack is letting the block deform...
Have you pulled the caps back off? If it's taking any force to turn
the crank, it'll leave marks in the bearing caps that may help you
troubleshoot. Something as small as a thread fram a rag will do this,
as will misalining the caps slightly, front-to-rear.
Ooh, brain flash: are you SURE the rear main has settled in squarely?
If that rope seal hasn't been thoroughly (like, for a week) soaked, it
won't conform, and will make the rear cap cock, and bind the crank.
There should be no gaps on that rear cap... Also, if the seal is binding
the crank at all, it'll shred and end up stuck to the pickup of your oil
pump. Been there, did THAT!
Has anyone come up with a retrofit neoprene seal that WORKS? The
original rope is actually pretty amazing, but it's by no means
foolproof...
Toby
> Morning List,
> Just started to reassemble my 2 liter. I have a few questions.
> First should the crank be hard to turn over after turning the crank and
> putting new bearings in it. I plasti-gaged it and it was in tolerance. I
>
> also cleaned and used assembly lube on bearings before I final torqued
> the main caps. The crank can not be rotated by hand it needs a socket
> and ratchet to turn it over.
> Mike
> SRL 311 11714 is coming back to life!!
> There is a heat wave here in Idaho! Its in the sixties, and sunny.
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