If you find that your distributor does not drop into the oil pump shaft when
you change the distributor, just need to tap the starter till it comes
around by itself, and drops right in, no muss, no fuss.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Glasgow <glasgow@serv.net>
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 24, 1999 11:27 PM
Subject: Re: I'm Retarded!!!!!!! my engine that is
>Okay, Daniel, here's something else to check. There are actually two places
on the distributor where the advance can be changed. The one you are
describing is
>the "normal" one that everyone uses to set the timing. If you are looking
straight down on the distributor, it is at 6:00. This is the one that has
the degree
>markings on it. You loosen the screw and twist the distributor back and
forth.
>
>This is actually a plate that is fastened to the bottom of the distributor
body by a screw that goes UP through the plate into the distributor. This
screw is at
>about 2:00. You will notice that there is a slot there, too. You can loosen
this screw and adjust the distributor even more (assuming there is any
adjustment
>left).
>
>If you are completely out of adjustment on both of these, then it means
that the distributor drive gear is off by one tooth on the jackshaft. There
is enough
>total adjustment between these two slots that you can ALMOST get the timing
right even if you are off a tooth. Any more than one tooth and I doubt if
the engine
>would even run.
>
>A truly anal-retentive engine builder would probably set things up so that
the "normal" pointer is sitting at 0 when the actual initial advance is at
16 degrees
>(or 20 degrees for the Solex setup). That way you would have plus or minus
10 degrees to play with at the distributor and the degree markings would
mean
>something.
>
>Getting the drive gear off by one tooth is all too easy to do. It seems
like changing it is simple, but the gears are helical (spiral), so the drive
gear
>rotates as it comes out. The bottom end of the drive gear is like a
screwdriver blade, and that blade has to mesh with the oil pump drive shaft.
So when you
>take the gear out, it rotates the oil pump drive shaft with it until it is
clear of it. When you put the gear back in, it engages the drive shaft as it
rotates
>down. This means that when you are shifting the drive gear one way or the
other, you have to rotate the oil pump shaft a little bit in the same
direction you
>are shifting the distributor drive gear, or else the two won't engage when
you put the gear back in. It's a real guessing game that has taken me as
much as an
>hour to get right sometimes.
>
>BTW, here's a way to do a quick "static timing" on an engine before you
fire it up. Turn the engine over by hand until it is showing 16 degrees BTDC
on the
>timing marks. Turn on the ignition (don't hit the starter, obviously, just
turn it to "On" so there is juice to the ignition). Then pull the
distributor cap and
>loosen the adjusting screw. Twist the distributor slowly back and forth by
hand and watch for the points to spark. You want to lock the distributor
down as
>close as possible to the point at which the points spark. This will get you
close enough to correct timing that the car should start fine. Then you can
dial it
>in accurately with a timing light.
>
>This will only work if you are running points - If you have a Pertronics or
other non-point triggering mechanism, this won't work.
>
>Dan Neuman wrote:
>
>> Hello All,
>> Yes another chapter in my saga of trying to put in my new
non-smog dist. Okay I 'think' I have it in correctly with the correct
number one cylinder
>> and the rotor pointing in the correct direction. Here is my problem. I
can not
>> advance the timing enough??? At idle and the dist. advanced as far as it
will
>> go I am just at 0 deg. This is with the octane selector set to 10
advanced and
>> the dist body rotated all the way. When I rev it to 4000rpm my fancy
sears
>> advance checking timing light says that I am only about 16 deg advanced??
>> With the advance set as far as it will go 0 deg. The car starts right up
and
>> idles fine.
>> Just to make sure that I am not a total moron this is how I am
checking the timing. On the block there is a 'pointer' A round tube that
has
>> been crimped flat and the crimped end is the 'pointer'. On the crank
pully there
>> are a series of marks(like little cuts taken out of the edge). WIth the
biggest mark being 0 deg and each smaller
>> mark after being an additional 5 deg advanced.
>> WIth the engine idleing at around 700 rpm the biggest mark lines up with
the
>> pointer when the timing is advanced all the way. I am assuming that this
means
>> that I am at 0 deg BTDC.
>> So, what the heck is wrong?? Did I get the dist. in almost right
but
>> some how managed to slip it in in a slightly retarded position??
>> What the heck else could it be??
>> I think Fred katz noticed, at Shasta that my timing seemed to be really
>> advanced. I think he made a comment about the octane pointer being at
>> 10 deg. advanced.. But to tell you the truth I have never checked the
timing
>> with a light till today. Car seemed to run fine enough. So maybe this
is not
>> a new problem??
>> Someone anyone set me straight!! Help me before I roll a hand
grenade under the car to collect the insurance money...
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Daniel 69 2000
>> SF CA
>> 415-752-3291 (incase someone wants to clue me in
>> over the phone)
>
>--
>Gordon Glasgow
>Renton, WA
>http://www.gordon-glasgow.org
>
>
>
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