Actually, I was well aware of the "correct" hookup for the S and L
terminals. However, I have been doing the sort of conversion I mentioned in
my post (using a single connection for both S and L) for over 10 years now
with no problems. The sort of problem you mention will only occur IF there
is a problem with the internal regulator...in which case it is nearly always
a bad regulator in the first place...which normally means a replacement
alternator, unless you have a reliable rebuilder nearby (I don't).
It is nice to have the warning lamp, however, for ease of installation
for the electrically challenged, I recommend the single wire hookup.
On self-excitement... That is a neat trick! I've seen that problem many
times myself. I've also seen several cars with no hookup to S and L, or a
loose "T" connector. The owner just blips the throttle to get it to start
charging. The only trouble is, without a reference voltage, the alternator
often puts out up to 18volts...the lights burn VERY bright for about 2
weeks, then burn out. Radios, EFI and electronic ignition systems don't like
it much either.
Rob Robinson
CSP 67 2000
Roanoke, Va
-----Original Message-----
From: Thomas Walter <walter@omni.sps.mot.com>
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: Random alternator question...
>
>Rob,
>
>On the later ('78 and on) internally regulated alternators,
>two connections:
>
>"S" is sense connection. This should be connected to the battery
>to sense the voltage.
>
>"L" is the "Lamp" connection. Typically hooked up through a lamp
>which has one side connected to +12V (ignition on). The "L" terminal
>serves two functions:
>
>1. When power is applied, it will turn on the circuitry for the alternator.
>2. When there is an error condition, that terminal is GROUNDED, to light
> the warning lamp.
>
>I've seen quite a few alternators damaged by appling the ignition voltage
>directly to the "L" terminal. It should be through a small warning light,
>or a resistor (GM uses "resistance wire" on cars without a warning lamp.).
>
>Of humor... on the later Datsun's, when the dash warning light burns out
>the alternator will not turn on as expected. If you rev the engine to
>about 4,000 rpm... suddenly there is enough "self-excitement" to get the
>alternator to kick start itself to be on... then around 1,500 rpm the
>alternator stops putting out any current. Just makes it interesting to
>trouble shoot... usually it is a bad dash light ($1) and not a $80/exchange
>alternator.
>
>Cheers,
>
>Tom Walter
>
>>From: "Rob Robinson" <FastrTime@t-three.com>
>
>> I've been very happy with my '88 Maxima alternator. It fits the RH
side
>>of the U20 very nicely, has 90amp output and internal regulator. Simple
two
>>wire hookup to "acc" terminal on ignition switch or to coil (+) via diode,
>>and to battery (+). And a bonus: your Nissan is still all Nissan! If
>>clearance is an issue, try a '84-'85 300zx Alt., 60amps and a smaller
case.
>>Both the Maxima and 300 Alts have internal cooling fans.
>>
>>Rob Robinson
>>CSP 67 2000
>>Roanoke, Va
>
>
|