Rob,
On the later ('78 and on) internally regulated alternators,
two connections:
"S" is sense connection. This should be connected to the battery
to sense the voltage.
"L" is the "Lamp" connection. Typically hooked up through a lamp
which has one side connected to +12V (ignition on). The "L" terminal
serves two functions:
1. When power is applied, it will turn on the circuitry for the alternator.
2. When there is an error condition, that terminal is GROUNDED, to light
the warning lamp.
I've seen quite a few alternators damaged by appling the ignition voltage
directly to the "L" terminal. It should be through a small warning light,
or a resistor (GM uses "resistance wire" on cars without a warning lamp.).
Of humor... on the later Datsun's, when the dash warning light burns out
the alternator will not turn on as expected. If you rev the engine to
about 4,000 rpm... suddenly there is enough "self-excitement" to get the
alternator to kick start itself to be on... then around 1,500 rpm the
alternator stops putting out any current. Just makes it interesting to
trouble shoot... usually it is a bad dash light ($1) and not a $80/exchange
alternator.
Cheers,
Tom Walter
>From: "Rob Robinson" <FastrTime@t-three.com>
> I've been very happy with my '88 Maxima alternator. It fits the RH side
>of the U20 very nicely, has 90amp output and internal regulator. Simple two
>wire hookup to "acc" terminal on ignition switch or to coil (+) via diode,
>and to battery (+). And a bonus: your Nissan is still all Nissan! If
>clearance is an issue, try a '84-'85 300zx Alt., 60amps and a smaller case.
>Both the Maxima and 300 Alts have internal cooling fans.
>
>Rob Robinson
>CSP 67 2000
>Roanoke, Va
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