Thomas.
Glad to hear you got it going.
I have a short tuning procedure for you.
-Set the bimetal spring in the temp compensator so the cone just seals the
port at room temp. Use the nylock nut for this.
-Set the bypass valve all the way tight. If there is no external
setting, remove the valve, disassemble it, and set the brass spring stop
so as to close the diaphragm tightly. Do also check the integrity of the
diaphragm, as well as the surface finish of the sealing face. Sand with
fine emery paper if necessary.
-Be sure the main piston diaphragm (under the dashpot) is "centered"
properly so the vacuum ports in the piston face directly in towards the
intake manifold. This will be visible from above with the dashpot off.
Set this alignment carefully, and disregard the alignment nubs in the
carb body and diaphragm if necessary.
-You don't need the special tool to adjust the main mixture. Just use a
long arm allen wrench, but make sure the piston body itself is prohibited
from turning whilst you are trying to turn the needle retraction screw.
Also, make sure the needle lock-down screw is not fully tight, else
it'll be difficult to turn the adjuster. This small brass setscrew is
visible when you remove the piston.
-That should be it.
In the words of C3PO, "you're now a part of the tribe"
To all those who will flame me for these straightforward tuning tips and
would recommend he just take the car to a 4-gas analyzer: I've got my
Kevlar suit on.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu
Dept. of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
Washington State University, Pullman, Wa.
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
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