FRAME REALITY:
I seem to be left with a spare TR6 frame that *really* needs to disappear
from my driveway before the neighbors form a posse. It's mostly very sound
and straight, but the right radiator mounting is bent upward, and the right
front shock tower has been worked on (by a welder) at some time. From
there back it's in perfectly good shape. The other good news is that the
rear outriggers (the ones that rust out first on the TR frame) are really
solid.
OFFER:
I'm not interested in going to a lot of trouble to ship this thing anywhere,
but if anyone wants it, I'll take $25 plus whatever the truck co. wants for
moving it (probably decidedly more than $25). Otherwise the local scrap
yard picks it up next Thursday (the 26th).
MG PAINT, ETC:
>From Ray Gibbons' keyboard flowed the following:
>local auto paint stores; many of them should have color info back to 71,
>and should be able to mix you a quart. Take the car with you.
I recently needed paint for my '76 MG (Brooklands Green); when I told the
paint counter person what it was for, she replied "MG -- is that a Triumph?"
I had the DuPont number, but they only knew numbers for BASF paint. The
oldest cross-reference book she had went back to '71, but no mention of MGs.
But, hey, there's a section labeled "Rover, Jaguar" - sure enough, there it
was - "Brooklands Green" - and the number matched mine.
UPHOLSTERY:
From: john peloquin <peloquin@galaxy.ucr.edu>
>I have to replace the seat uphoulstery on my 1970 MGB-GT. I wonder if
>anyone has any suggestions as to kits for replacement.
I thought about the kits available from TRF and Moss, but my local shop made a
custom set for me (and installed them) for $300. This included the headrests,
the total for which would have been quite a bit more than $300 for just the
kits! I didn't need new foams, but when I asked the guy about making them, he
replied "Oh, those are dealer items; just get them there" ;-)
MGB CLUTCH BLEEDING:
RCG1597@aol.com spouts off thusly: (Hi, Rick!)
>The clutch is a completely different story. I cannot get it to bleed at
>all. I tried the normal pump-the-pedal process, but that did zip. I tried
>using a hand-powered vacuum pump, but all I got was an air/fluid mixture, I
>could never get a solid stream of fluid.
Rick, when I was getting the 'B roadworthy (with help from SOLer Ray James) we
had to pump nearly a quart of fluid through the clutch system before we
started getting any results. Any other SOLer's have similar experiences?
-Lee "can't wait to actually *drive*" Daniels
Lee M. Daniels Laboratory for Molecular Structure and Bonding Texas A&M
daniels@tamu.edu (409) 845-3726 Fax (409) 845-9351
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