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2.0 head + 2.5 Block = ?

To: Scions of Lucas <british-cars@autox.team.net>
Subject: 2.0 head + 2.5 Block = ?
From: Greg Meboe <meboe@wsuaix.csc.wsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 1994 17:00:01 -31702 (PDT)
Dear World of knowledgeable Friends, 
        While the 2.0 Triumph 6 in my Spit is very smooth, I have been 
lately been feeling greedy for power.  Coincidently, I realized that I 
have the engine from my TR-6 restoration project acting as a paper weight 
for one of the benches in my shop.
        What I'm proposing to do is: put the GT-6 cylinder head onto the 
TR-6 short block.
        What I'd like is some advice.
        Some history of the components:  I bought the 74 TR-6 from the orig. 
owner, with 49,000 on the clock.  It ran beautifully, but he didn't drive 
it much if at all.  I drove it for a year, on and off, just for fun.  I 
usually was very gentle with the engine, but after a year of driving it 
it blew a head gasket.  I took it off the road, and developed a serious 
case of Shipwright's.  Soon the body was off to the shop being plastic 
media blasted, and I was tearing the rest of the car apart.
        I removed the cylinder head and greased the cylinder walls (which 
look clean still).  
        The '72 GT-6 engine has compression between 134 and 126 on all six, 
so while it's still smooth, it lacks power.  The car I obtained the 
cylinder head from was a former customers', before he wrote it off in 
traffic, and I know that he had the cyl head rebuilt a few years ago by 
a shop that I recommended. 
        I remember the TR-6 of mine being the most powerful stock one that I
had ever driven, so I believe the short block is in good shape.  
        After a stock rebuild of a friend's TR-250, I recall compression 
being 205 across the board.  It seemed to run nicely on 92 octane.  I'm 
hoping that I'll attain similar numbers with the shallower GT-6 head on 
the TR-6 block, as Triumph added so much metal to the bottom of the head 
castings of practiacally all of their cars during the early 70's.
        I don't have a spare TR-250 head to check chamber depth against, and 
I'm using the GT-6 (Spit) as a daily driver.

        Any suggestions as to how I could get ($ + time) to remain at a 
minimum whilst still enjoying a faster Spit?
        BTW, I had planned to rebuild the TR-6 engine anyway when I got the 
body and interior finished, so the engine would be eventually returned to 
the TR-6, and I'll just find another short block for the Spit.  But I 
don't imagine this'll happen until I get my PhD, which could be some time 
yet, no doubt.
                            Greg Meboe     meboe@wsuaix.csc.wsu.edu
                            Dept. of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
                            Washington State University,  Pullman, Wa.
                            '67 Spit-6   '74 TR-6




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