On Mon, 21 Feb 1994, Andrews Peter F wrote:
> The dimmer switch for example. The dimmer swith is electrical - where's
> the wiring? Oh, I remember. "Complete harness may not include minor
> subharnesses." Nuts. Go visit '59 Bugeye in the garage - sure enough it
> couple of short harnesses to the headlights.
>
> On to the catalogs. Moss doesn't offer them but VB has the dimmer switch
> harness in braid for $25 and the headlamp harness for $10/each but only
> in PVC. Now why did they do that? Anyone know where to get the
> headlamp harness in braid? (I feel that disease coming on again...)
>
There is an outfit that specializes in wiring harnesses for almost
everything--I think it is something like Rhode Island Electric or some
such. Check in Hemmings. They offer what purport to be absolutely
original braided harnesses for the entire car, albeit at a hell of a
price. I made a dimmer switch harness, intending to replace it later with
a proper braided one. I think the VB price sounds good, if the harness
is. If you buy one, please tell me how you like it. VB quality varies a
lot, I find.
> I found some stainless sheetmetal screws at a local hardware store to
> attach the defroster nozzels and the air vents. I have often wished
> someone would offer a complete Bugeye fastener kit with stainless
> hardware where appropriate. Sure would save time in scrounging.
>
If you are into originality, as it seems you are, watch the fasteners.
All machine screws with cross drive heads are pozi-drive, and not
phillips. At an AHCA concours judging, you would lose points for phillips
head machine screws.
> I'm sure this is a FAQ but bear with me. I need a new Bugeye grill and
> the prices in the catalogs are all over the map. Sports and Classics
> advertises one for $99. Motorhead is $175, VB and Moss are around $240.
> Does anyone have any advice?
>
You'd think there would be only one supplier of bugeye reproduction
grilles. Instead, my impression is that half the shops in Taiwan must
turn them out. I got one from Moss 2 yr ago that was made of two pieces,
spot welded together, with bad chrome, for a high price. I returned it
and they cheerfully sent me another, with better chrome. I tried to fit
it, and discovered it didn't fit my many times crunched bonnet, although a
borrowed original fit perfectly. Moreover, it had the wrong size mesh,
with a different number of holes from the original. They took it back.
I knew a friend had a very nice reproduction; he said he got it from
Spridgebits the year before. Spridgebits has been absorbed by Ron
Hopkinson; as near as I could tell on the phone, the good kind my friend
has is no longer available. Then I read in the announcements in the front
pages of a british car mag that Motobilt (??? think that was the name, I
could check if you want) were supplying one piece stamped reproductions at
a bargain price. I ordered one, which thankfully arrived undamaged, and
fit.
It is decent quality. It is not, however, an exact reproduction. It
depends how fussy you are. Original grilles have a groove along the
outside edge of the top. My reproduction, and most reproductions I have
seen, don't have any groove, or an indistinct one. An exception was the
grille my friend obtained from Spridgebits, which was an outstanding
reproduction but a bear to fit (according to his mechanic). I suspect his
mechanic had a few beers before trying; it should not be that hard.
The bottom line is that you should ask any supplier if the grille is a one
piece stamping or two stampings spot welded together. If the latter, take
a pass. If the former, try to find out if it has a fine groove along the
top. If you find a good one with the groove, please let me know where you
got it. I want one.
A hint on fitting the grille. They are supposed to be held by strange
clips that are hard to get on, and impossible to get off. I put mine on
with the stamped sheet steel self-threading nuts (1/8 inch, as I recall)
often used to fit such things as name plates and emblems. These "speed
nuts" cut a spiral thread and pulled the grille snug easily; they were
large enough I did not have to bother with washers. They can be removed
and replaced several times before the mounting posts get too scored to
hold. They are, of course, not original, but you have to really look to
find them once the car is together. Even if I were going to use the
original type clips, I'd install the grill with the speed nuts and then
remove them one at a time to install the original clips. These nuts also
are great for the bugeye arrow on the rear.
> I have been using a Bentley Sprite and MIdget 948/1098 manual for some of
> my work. I just noticed a new BL Bugeye Workshop manual listed in the
> Moss flyer with "new new new new new" by it. Is this book worth the $35?
>
I have a reproduction bugeye workshop manual that I bought new two or
three years ago. It may be new to Moss, but not new in general. It is
worth it not to have to wade through all the stuff that does not apply.
Be warned, however, that the illustrations are all of very early cars and
may be a bit different from post 5K cars. Also very useful is a parts
manual for the bugeye, which is also available. It shows exploded
assemblies which helps a lot in reconstruction.
Ray Gibbons
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