Mark Bradakis scribed:
Subject: Cool it!
> I have yet to convince myself whether an oil thermostat is required.
Just depends on how well you want to regulate temperature.
MGB's came with oil coolers, stock, and no thermostat. They seem to have
fairly few few bottom end problems.
> And of course one could try to scrounge used parts. Look for an MGB-GT in a
> junkyard that has not been hit in the front.
Almost all MGB's came with oil coolers. They started after the first few
cars, (My 64 has one), and continued. I think even the Black Bumper Mutants
all came with them.
Scotty Paisley scribed:
Subject: How do you break in an engine? (was: In praise of Castrol)
> Daniel J. Dasaro writes:
> > >From the archives (Nov 1990) comes this story from Dan Mutchler about
> > Castrol motor oil:
>
> > >The mechanic inquired about the type of oil and when he heard it
> > >was Castrol told him to not use it for the next 5,000 miles. Seems
> > >they have had a lot of problems with engines not breaking in when
> > >Castrol was used because it was so slick the necessary friction couldn't
>
> [... second story about engine not breaking in ...]
I like Castrol, but I wonder about this- first I've heard. I know you
don't want to use synthetics for breakin anyhow. There are a lot of variables
in materials & dimensions which could make this true, maybe.
> Do I buy some Quaker State 30W and run my car for a few hundred miles now?
Why not- cheap & easy.
> What have you folks done?
Run Castrol 20-50 in all my British street engines in summer. 10-30 or
20-50 in the Japaneese stuff, seasonally. Something reasonable in
my Ford truck, and straight 30 Wt in my '39 Ford tractor. The
30 wt. is a candidate for break-in. Less additives.
Scotty Paisley scribed:
Subject: Re: CLANK IV - The project grows
> Humm. My head rebuild for the TR6 was fairly cheap. I was able to
> use my old valves *and* springs.
...
> I did not put in hardened seats because I was using the old valves.
> I'm not sure if this makes sense, but my machine shop recommended not
> to put in hardened seats until the valves receded into the head.
Modern petrol does not contain lead. Standard seats will last reasonably
under mild, or occasional use. Under high heat conditions, such as
heavy load, or continous high RPM, the valves can recede rapidly.
An older truck used for towing for example, will waste unhardened
valves/seats in no time. The only guarrenteed fix is modern materials-
installing hardened seats. Which will last better than un-hardened
*with* lead!
Driving a 1930 or '57 Chevy, or a Hudson, or the likes occasionaly
is not likely to create a valve recession problem- they'll probably
never see much beyond 3500 RPM. Touring about in a '59 MGA or TR3
shouldn't be a problem either. But, if you like to shift at redline,
or drive near it- you're ought to be thinking about upgrading.
> I am running lead in it at first though. I'll probably switch to
> a substitute once I get all the little buggies out of the carbs.
Well, even if you ignore ecological reasons for not using lead, it's
very hard to get now, (illegal too) and can be fairly expensive, either
as an additive, or racing gas, etc.
> Anyone prefer one substitute over another?
Snake Oil. I have yet to see proof that any of them work. And even less
information to determine which one might work, if any. The only thing
certain about "lead substitutes", is that they got your money...
I *am* using some, just the same, until the engines get rebuilt, and
"fixed" correctly. On the *hope* that it will help some. Stick with major
quality brands, and you may have a chance. :-(
When you need do do any head work- valves, or grind the seats- go with
hardened seats.
________
/___ _ \ Roger Garnett (Roger_Garnett@cornell.edu)
/| || \ \ Agricultural Economics | South Lansing Centre For
| |___|| _ | 3 Warren Hall | Wayward Sports Cars
| | \ | | | Cornell University | (Lansing, NY)
\| \ |__/ / Ithaca, N.Y. 14853 | (607) 533-7735
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