James A. TenCate wrote:
> go bad quite often on the TR6. Mine was no exception. To remove the
> pinion seal, you must first take off the nut holding the end flange.
[...]
> saw! Use the hole saw to make a hole big enough for the 1 1/8 socket
> you'll need to take off the nut. Then you can drill two or three 3/8 inch
> holes (around the big hole) to use for bolts to the flange. I drilled three,
> misdrilled one of them badly, so just bolted the 2 x 4 on with two bolts.
> Propped the 2 x 4 against the floor and used my breaker bar to undo the nut.
> Worked just fine. Piece of cake! Now all I've gotta do is get the seal out
>:-)
I wish I had thought of this trick before I did what I did. I used my
mommy pipe wrench to hold the flange while I used a breaker bar to
remove the nut. This worked, but it did leave two teeth marks in the
flange from the pipe wrench. Thinking back, it did work quite nice...
Ron Hood wrote:
> - When I last drove the car I started hearing a knocking noise from the
> rear end, quiet at first but getting quite distinct in a matter of
> 30 minutes or so. I would suspect something in the differential
Well, I have a very similar problem. The best way I can describe my
knocking sound is this: When I am corning hard around a right hand
turn ONLY under acceleration (and only a right turn), I will
*sometimes* hear a clacking sound. It sounds like a kid running down
a picket fence with a broom handle. Could this be a u-joint? Or do I
have the dreaded TR6 broken rearend frame mount. I have 6 new ujoints
waiting to be installed, so I'm inclined to try them first. But I
figured I'd ask the LBC clerics on the list for some divine
intervention first. :-)
Let me know what you find Ron...
Cheer(io)s,
-Scotty
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